IH 400 hydraulic issues.

Friend has a 400 with stuck psi valves. Has three remotes ahead of the steering wheel. The pump was rebuilt as we thought it needed it because of the hydraulic system would get smoking hot in a short time after starting the tractor. Realized it is the psi valve(s) that are stuck. Local dealer is of no help or are too busy to lend us a hand and get the needed parts we need. Anybody have part numbers for the valves, springs, O-rings that are below the four bolt plate where the lever rods go to the hydro block ? Thanks...

Parts and Numbers are here. Jim
diagram

Dealer shops do not even want to look at anything that old anymore and if they did at 100 plus dollars per hour the customer would feel done over after a few hours. A New Holland mechanic years ago talked about a guy wanting to bring in a 9N for a rebuild. Shop foreman pointed out billable time would be substantial versus the tractor's value. The customer said he did not care and signed for the work order. Long story made short after power wash, disassembly, take crank to machine shop and then pick up crank to bring back, etc. the bill was 1,700 dollars. Big shouting match broke out on the sales floor between store manager and customer. Customer said would have money ahead to have the neighborhood shade tree guy do it and store manager said that is the direction we tried steering you in at the beginning of all this. Case IH shop will absolutely not give free time to talk to anyone about repair advice. It's happened to me and others that I know. For all the beefing people do about JD on this website I've called about combine repair, planter monitors, and changing out grain drill feed cups which were all decades old and not one bill or cussing that I was wasting their time. Probably what you did not want to hear but you are not alone in a dealer not wanting to help. While I bragged up the JD dealer I do recall asking about working on a 2 cylinder and the response was they did not want to look at those in the shop.

You will need to clean the flow control block on the brake side of the tractor. Take two of the bolts loose on the top and get longer ones to put back in that will let the spring relieve the pressure. Gasket is cheap. Pull the spring and piston out and clean and make sure it slides freely. There is a orifice and screen that you use a large screwdriver to take out. That is the part likely to be plugged.There is a small ball bearing that some remove that hammers the small hole shut. That is the part that controls the pressures. The o-rings in the valve stack are all the same.I believe the hole is some where around .040 that some drill out due to valves wearing out. Good luck.

I have alot of interest in machinery and farming the way it was done 50 years ago the way it should be, and none what so ever in todays modern machinery.

I farm with older equipment out of necessity but I do enjoy using it and my love for it has only increased in recent years. I would have current tractors, combine, etc. if I could afford them but that is not reality for me. My newest farm tractor is a 1985 model. Until they chase me away I will give preference to JD as they have been helpful without me spending a fortune in the shop. Also, the JD boneyard for combines is only an hour away so that keeps my parts cost down. I'm going to have to knuckle down and buy an Axial Flow as we have had terrible falls as of late to get the crop dry enough to run with a cylinder type combine. I'll still run the JD combine as the trade value is not much for my current machine.

I agree NY 986. But, isn't it thier JOB to assist you and me at whatever parts WE NEED ? They have all the books, information, and microfiche to assist US. As WE pay their salaries!!!! This discussion can go on forever but I'm at work and don't have a lot of time to be on here anyway. Thanks for the help. If we can't get the local shop to help us then we have no other options other then to go elsewhere to get parts.....

Thanks Roger for the information!!!

My wording was deliberate as to the dealer SHOP and not the dealer PARTS DEPARTMENT. By all means the parts department should be accommodating as to looking up and ordering currently available parts. I see it many times and I am guilty of it as well as to asking the parts person as to troubleshooting and installation but most lack the experience to be helpful in these areas. So a person really should not feel put off if the parts person is unable or unwilling to help as to trouble shooting or removal and reinstallation of parts. If your dealer is one that flat out does not want to sell parts for older equipment then the alternative is to find another source unfortunately.

Something else that will cause the hydraulics to heat up fast is the flow control on each auxiliary valve. On each valve is a flat spring with two notches. If the roll pin that fits in the notches is missing or broken the oil will get hot real quick. These are located in in front of the steering wheel and it's a round shaft with two flat sides. These are for setting the valve for single or double acting cylinders.

I bought all the parts at IH and took the valves apart myself, cleaned them up and reassembled them. I had to make a wooden piece to install the garter springs on the valve which was quit easy. Anyway they are not that hard to work on and does not require a high mechanical skill level.

Kalven, Those Single/Double va lm valves move freely and are in Double Acting Positions.

I have a ih 404 65 model have changed all new hyd fluid also had cooler off in front ,changed radiator reassembled, this is a power steering model,whats the best way to remove air from syst??been trying with no success any help would be appreciated Ray