I will try to avoid controversy here. Not easy sometimes. I do not believe your idea will work to raise coolant level a little at a time.

I believe you are doomed and have to pull head again. You have two potential problems. Cracked eroded head or (very likely) head gasket not sealing on sleeve flange. Flange too low or too high or wrong gasket. Like I indicated before, mix ups on those gaskets has been a problem .

Maybe Slater will chime in. Very knowlegable.

What is your comment on rustred saying a retorque is a must when hot. I only retorqued cold

I think you need to get some experience and tools on engine overhauls. I also agree with pete and the vet. where did u come up with the thing about a cold retorque.? how can u just eye up sleeve stand out.?? I overhauled a super wd6, same basic engine, in the late 1970's when I was about 20 years old. i put the head gasket on dry and started the tractor and she was leaking water out from the gasket. I run it to operating temp. retorqued the head and she never leaked after that. I am using this as an example as you questioning retorquing hot. how else are you to do it? by the time you get the valve cover off and rocker the engine is not burn your hands workable. it appears you have skipped many steps. I been working on these old ih engines all my life. my posting is not pulled out of the sky, .. but hands on stuff. what works and what don't.

I always retorqued head bolts on a 560d when hot but on this one since the rocker has to come off I just rechecked torque when cold after I had a few drops of antifreeze come out oil plug. Plus I didn't know if it was really nessecary on a 450 since it has big studs with fine threaded nut and so many of them and a high torque to begin with. Seems a lot more beefed up than a 560. I just know the flange was a few thousanths above head deck.

how do you know? u need a dial indicator and measure each sleeve stand out.

Thanks. I do have a dial indicater with magnetic base. I never thought of that. I was thinking a depth mic.