McCormick w4 references for restoration

So I am having a very hard time finding similar tractors online to compare our w4 to for restoration. Mainly for decal placement and just finding a w4 with a hydraulic system is hard enough. Anyway I'll leave some pictures of our machine. This winter I'd like to strip it down and at least give it a fresh coat of paint. It's definitely got some hours on it but she runs like a top. Starts no problem in -15c. The tin is very straight and not in bad shape. It has alot of potential for a restoration.
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Where are you located in Canada? Doubt someone below the 49th is using Celsius. Your W4 is a 1949 model, see it had a magneto when it was built. How is loader ran now? Off a pto hydraulic pump?
 
Off topic, but think you posted about this before. Does your tractor have a hydraulic pump like one on left?
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(quoted from post at 18:14:09 11/11/19) Where are you located in Canada? Doubt someone below the 49th is using Celsius. Your W4 is a 1949 model, see it had a magneto when it was built. How is loader ran now? Off a pto hydraulic pump?
It's kind of a bad pic but the hydraulic pump is off the end of the distributor which is hidden by the loader frame
 
You have a aftermarket pump sold by a company called M and W. It's not a factory pump like you thought in a previous post.
 
M&W specs on pump said 12 GPM at 1000 PSI. Heisler also sold a pump that looked like the M&W one. So you could have that.
 
Ok that makes sense as to why there's not much power out of that pump. I wonder if finding a pump that could hook up to the base plate with a higher psi rating would be able to run in the same configuration
 
A factory engine mounted pump would have pretty much same gpm's & pressure you have now. Do you use the pto at the rear tractor? I would suggest a pto driven pump if not. Princess auto sells a pto pump, 21 gpm's & 2500 psi. I have one on my Farmall 400 with a loader. Works very well.
 
The post-1950 distributor driven pump is 12GPM and 1500PSI as I recall, but unless you have a post-1950 tractor it won't fit right and you won't have the strengthened timing gears necessary to run it.

That's your best bet for anything factory AND live. A crankshaft driven pump mounted up front would be the best way to go for a solution that doesn't stop the moment you push in the clutch, but in this day and age it will be a custom solution.
 
(quoted from post at 21:22:52 11/11/19) A factory engine mounted pump would have pretty much same gpm's & pressure you have now. Do you use the pto at the rear tractor? I would suggest a pto driven pump if not. Princess auto sells a pto pump, 21 gpm's & 2500 psi. I have one on my Farmall 400 with a loader. Works very well.
We do use the PTO for most of the fall as we have an older Minneapolis Moline manure spreader that it stays on for about a month and a half every year
 
I think your right. I did come across a picture of a w4 fitted with a crank mounted pump and it was bolted to stock bolt holes on the front of the frame where the hand crank hole is located. I think with a little bit of planning to make it look clean it would be a much more practical addition to have live hydraulics
 
My brother, hired his brother in law, [who is pretty good mechanic ]too drill a hole threw the casting on the front of the his 400, to run a live pump, because he had put in a 1945 M Farmall engine in it,and then built a guard around it, how he hooked it all up, i cant say, but it works fine!
 
My late Grandfather's Super W6 doesn't have factory hydraulic. Used to have pto driven Char-lynn pump, Dad told me it was total pain. Always taking it on & off depending on what they were up to. Guessing sometime in the 70's, Dad converted the system to be driven off the front of the crankshaft. It was an used setup he found somewhere, non ih parts. Later in its life, all this tractor did was plow snow in the winter. Just ran a hyd ram to lift the front mounted blade up/down. Did it slowly thou. It field days are long past. 5 years ago I replaced the whole setup with newer parts that didn't leak oil. Still ran into the same issue, the engine doesn't spin fast enough. The SW6 spins at 1450 rpm, think the W6 might be 1600 rpm? All the pumps that I look at need 2000 rpm + or more.
 

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