IH TD15B/175B questions/plus IH574 ??

So if I pull the injectors out so I can put in ATF to free things up and all is there an O-ring or some other sort of seal on the injectors that I should replace when I put them back in? I know the engine is not locked up but this machine has sat for years with out running so figure ATF in the cylinder will not hurt a thing.

As for the IH574 it is gas but is hard to start when cold but that is no big deal. The question is will it make it a better or worse machine by putting a JD lawn mower seat?? That is what the owner wants me to try to do. That said my IH584 has a Craftsman lawn mower seat on it

What engine is in the T D 15?? 361, 407, or the 466 . Myself if the thing turns over then leave it alone . You may end up pulling and injector sleeve and then the problems will start . Myself i would change oil and all filters , then i would make sure the batterys are at full charge and run her in the starter for 30 seconds with the throttle in shut down then let her set for a couple min. and do it again till ya see oil pressure . Then i would light her off and let her ideal . Don't go messen where you have never been before . Also buy dumping ATF in the cylinders you could end up Hyd. locking her and bending connecting rods .
World of difference between a DIESEL WITH A 15-17 TO 1 COMPRESSION RATION AND A OLD JUNK GAS TRACTOR WITH A 6-OR 7 TO 1 COMPRESSION RATIO.

I agree. If it turns over, send it.

Diesel fuel is a good cylinder wall lubricant.

I I pour ATF in the cylinders I would also be leaving the injectors loose so when I spun it over the ATF would spray out. Then once the engine was clear of the ATF I would put the injectors back in. But will talk it over with the owner. I can which seem odd turn it over just by grabbing the fan blade of the water pump. I would think a diesel would not move that easy

Well i am just given ya some advice here , Ya really don't want to be pulling injectors becuse if they are stuck and you can end up pulling the injector tube and then ya got BIG problems and i know you don't have the tool to install a new injector tube . If you force a injector you can also loosen the tube and have a coolant leak into the cylinder . On the 400 sires if i have to pull injectors i drain the cooling system before i start as i have had more then a couple suck the tube out , for me not a big deal as i have new tubes on hand and the tooling to install and reset the tube. while on the tractor . for the rest it turns into a R & R of the head and a trip to a machine shop. . Just change the oil and fliters and light her off , don't go looking for problems .

Well in this case the coolant is drained due to a mouse or rat that liked the taste of a coolant hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing. I'll talk to the owner an go from there and maybe even have him check out this post and what you say. I know I am not set up for pulling the head on a diesel. Gas engines not problem but a diesel things are a whole more hard to work on with out the correct tooling

And one more thing here , do you know how close to the head that piston comes , this is NOT a gas engine . You will never get all the ATF out and once you put the injectors back in if that engine is in any kind of shape your looking at 400 or better psi compression not 100 -140 psi . Put the ATF where it belongs in a automatic transmission not in and engine . And yes a diesel engine that is past break in stages can be turned with the fan . I have started equipment that has set for many years this way just change oil and ALL filters bleed the air out of the fuel system crank it on the starter till ya get oil pressure and put the fuel to it . Getting old Cat's with a pony motor were easy and you could crank them on half compression for as long as the pony had gas . Getting a direct injection engine going on and electric starter is to not over heat the starter .

Last YELLOW IRON i worked on was way back , well i can't really say that i guess back in 89 when i borrowed a buddys one John Deere 750 B as he had four 750's and 4 850's . He did not tell me or he did not know that the right Hydrostat assembly had worked loose from the final drive and rear frame . I found it once i started to work it and saw the trail of RED OIL in the dirt . Yea that was fun it all came back to me of WHY i DON'T WORK ON YELLOW IRON anymore .. To do the repair it was major tear down , Rops had to come off fuel tank Hyd. oil tank Hydrostatic oil tank had to come off all control linkage had to come off seat had to go batterys and battery box had to go floor plates had to go two drive shafts had to come out , winch had to come off and it only weighed in at three and a half TON fulol hyd. oil tank Hydrostat tank was down a bit with maybe forty gallon left in it full fuel tank two D 8 batterys . every thing was heavy then lift the hydrostat motor out and clean it up clean up the rear frame and reseal everything and do this out in the field with all hand tools and a 580 Case back hoe with a boom pole for persission handling of the heavy stuff , Thought it was going to have a double hernia pulling the winch as that was not the first time i had to deal with a small drum Hyster W 6 F winch with 380 feet of 1 1/8th drill line and NEVER get the idea you just going to set it in the bed of a 3/4 ton pick up . Yes i have done a lot of repairs in the field on farm equipment it is not that hard but that yellow iron THAT IS A WHOLE NEW BALL GAME AND DEPENDING ON WHAT ENGINE IT IS makes a big difference .
I always wanted a service truck that had a three ton crane , till i saw the price of a nw set up and even a good used one was not in the cards. I would have had to triple my hourly rate and work more hours then i did.

Years ago I had to work on the final drives of a TD6. It would only steer one way and not the others and it was a major pain to split the track and then open up the if I remember right right hand side and replace/repair the clutch and brake assembly. Nothing like working on the Cletrac HG I have but the HG will almost fit in the bed of a pickup