SMTA starting problem

Dave H (MI) · Oct 12, 2019

This is a great tractor. Spent many days on it cutting, raking and baling. This fall I brought it home and parked it on the drive. Went out to start it and it fired up and stalled right away. Battery box was completely full of water so I drained it and charged up the battery. Started and then died right away. Now it won't fire at all, just cranks over. Plenty of gas. I pulled the center wire off the distributor and it was my impression that the spark was not the greatest when held next to a ground. Would the symptoms I described be a sign of a weak or failing coil? It hasn't done the typical run 20 minutes and stall bit that I am familiar with on failing coils. Contacts under the cap were really carboned up. Maybe it needs a kit in the distributor? It was running fine...hate to fix anything that ain't broke.

Janicholson · Oct 12, 2019

Start with cleaning and setting the points at .020 when they are set on the high point of the dist. cam. Next look at the cap/rotor and check for tracks of carbon or physical cracks. Look at the spring loaded carbon button and the little springy contact on the rotor, for the same faults. The plug wires should have no Ohms, (or less than 2 Ohms per wire. If carbon resistor type, less than 8000 Ohms per foot of wire. Check the voltage at the input to the coil (not running). With points closed there should be battery voltage if 6v, or 12v if the coil is a no resistor needed, or about 6v if a resistor. 12v before the resistor. Checking the distributor side of the coil should show near zero volts. With points open, the voltage will be battery voltage on both sides of the coil. The coil (when disconnected on one small terminal) should show 1.5 to 2 ohms for 6v coil, or one needing a resistor. and 3 to 4 ohms for 12v no resistor needed. Jim

SMTA starting problem

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

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