farmall 300 row crop rear axle bearings

does any one have the oem bearing part #s and where besides my local caseih dealer I can buy bearings seals and gaskets.no luck with google
search stiner,yester,this one that one the other.dealers prices are not to be believed and can t tell me what part of the world there
coming from.order them and if there chineseum 20% restock fee to send them back. if I have to settle for globally sourced parts it s not
going to be at those prices.

Try motion for one. The numbers will come up on CASEIH.COM

Remember to count the balls in the bearings, cheaper bearings will have one less ball, making it a light duty bearing, but all the other specs will be the same.

Bates Corp In Bourbon has the inner for 142.80 Made in USA SKF brand To find the seal and outer bearing the axle size must be known. A gasket can be easily made from sheet material. Jim

Well sometimes if you want to play you must pay as for gskt. your FRIENDLY LOCAL CASE I H WHAT EVER THEY ARE TODAY is the only place your going to get the gskt. since they were the only place that made or had them made to there spec.s Same as axle bearings the correct ones for the job was a captive number deal . Getting the correct head gskt is another item that yea you can buy a shell we say a WILL FIT it is NOT the same . I don't like the prices anymore then you do but i don't have the time to waist looking for a WILL FIT part and have it fail and have to do the job over on my dime and end up having to get more parts because not only did that will fit fail it took out the bull pinion and bull gear with it and maybe broke the case also. Yep ya can buy a calking gun tube of DR. Blue or Dr. Black and use that But maybe the axle housing might start to working and work the bolts loose . a man told me many years ago that it only costs a buck more to go first class .

The transmission and rear bearings in these tractors are standard metric bearings. If you have one out you can measure it in millimeters and then look it up based on the dimensions.

Ball bearings follow a conventional sizing system that was laid down over a century ago. You can use any brand but will have best luck with a name brand such as SKF, Timken, MRC (owned by SKF), Bower/NTN, Koyo or Nachi.
Decades ago IH made their own bearings but these days they buy them and slap a label on the box. The last time I bought a transmission bearing from IH it was made by Bower/BCA.

Suffixes and prefixes around the bearing number tell if it has shields, seals, snap rings, etc and tend to be brand specific. You can look up manufacturer's sites to find out what their nomenclature is.

The two basic differences that will affect you are ball count. Standard conrad bearings have fewer balls and no filling slots and "Max" type have filling slot grooves cut into the outer race and more balls added. It has to do with the way they are assembled at manufacturing time.

For axle bearings you'll want the type with maximum balls which have higher load capacity.

I don't remember offhand what the size is for a 300 Axle but I want to say it's a 212 or 213. An M, for example, takes a 214w (The "W" is Timken for Max Type, for MRC it would be 214M) and I know that the 300 is a little bit smaller axle. If you don't have it apart yet, note that the surface the bearing rides on is a different diameter, being metric, than the part of the axle that sticks out of the housing ( 2 1/2" on a 300 IIRC).