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Farmall 140 Clutch Linkage Adjustment - NEED HELP

R

RTR

Well-known Member
So I put a rebuilt clutch disk (disk hub facing towards transmission), rebuilt pressure plate, and new throwout bearing in a 1975 Farmall 140 the other day and put the tractor back together. I didn't think anything of it but it was a little difficult pulling the 2 halves back together. Once buttoned back up, the clutch pedal had zero free play and I thought I would be able to adjust it from the rear hand-hole like it shows in the manual. I've ran both nuts forward and backwards and now they are both "loose" from the bracket on the linkage rod and still Zero free play. Looking at the throwout bearing from the other handhole (looking straight up) it looks like there is a 3/16 - 1/4 inch gap between TO Bearing and the rear of the sleeve it fits on. The TO bearing is pressing down on the pressure plate fingers too. I'm sure this is my problem, but now that I have the tractor split apart again, I want to make sure that I don't need to check or do anything else. PLEASE HELP
 
Pictures
mvphoto42440.jpg


mvphoto42441.jpg
 
Is there a clevis where it attaches to the throw out bearing. If so you can shorten that through the hand hole.
 
I have to be THAT guy and ask the question. Are you sure you got the proper clutch? There are at least 2 for the 140. They put a letter at the end of the serial number so you know which clutch you need before you split the tractor.
The proper pedal free travel is 35 mm 1-3/8 inch.
 
(quoted from post at 05:13:44 09/12/19) I have to be THAT guy and ask the question. Are you sure you got the proper clutch? There are at least 2 for the 140. They put a letter at the end of the serial number so you know which clutch you need before you split the tractor. The proper pedal free travel is 35 mm 1-3/8 inch.
Click to expand...

I didn t physically match each part but they visually look the same and bolt up fine. I got them rebuilt in exchange at a clutch specialty shop and the guy looked it up and said there were two offered (which I already knew). The only difference is that the Auburn clutch had less springs than the Rockford clutch. They both work interchangeably. This one got the same style that came out of it. The TO bearing is a USA made bearing that they pulled off the shelf stating it goes to that tractor. I think I will try to press that bearing on the sleeve the rest of the way (approx 3/16 inch ) so there is not a gap like in the picture. Hopefully that will be the slack I need. As it stands now, the TO bearing is against the pressure plate fingers.
 
Here are the parts that were installed. I happened to take a picture right before they went in.

mvphoto42571.jpg


mvphoto42572.jpg


I went ahead and split the tractor again. Anything you see that I should check besides that TO bearing being fully pressed on?
 
(quoted from post at 14:15:04 09/15/19) Did you ever get this sorted? I may be able to scan some pages from my blue chassis manual to assist.
Click to expand...

I did not. I re-split the tractor and left it. I m in California now on vacation. That would be most helpful if you could do that.
 
(quoted from post at 09:48:31 09/15/19)
(quoted from post at 14:15:04 09/15/19) Did you ever get this sorted? I may be able to scan some pages from my blue chassis manual to assist.
Click to expand...

I did not. I re-split the tractor and left it. I m in California now on vacation. That would be most helpful if you could do that.
Click to expand...
Here is my first attempt at this.

mvphoto42681.png


mvphoto42682.png
 
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