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IH 574 Will not Start - Read and tried others advise...

K

kburtt

New User
Good morning, I am in need of some assistance from the folks who know. I have an IH 574 that does not want to start. I parked it two years ago by the barn and finally back at chores. But, the tractor is very angry at me. I was finally able to drag it with my F250 so a position I can work on it. And as a side note, I was unable to drag it with the tranny in reverse only natural. Not sure if that is normal or an indication of a problem. Anyway, when I try to start the tractor the fuel gauge pegs to the right, I hear what I believe to be the starter attempt to do something. Thug, but no attempt to turn over. I ve followed the advice from other threads, had the battery verified (replaced, was no good), removed solenoid and starter and had them checked (depending on the folks that checked them), good to go, checked the safety switch at the clutch lever, good. As another side note, I see electrical tape in the area of the voltage regulator. Suspicious as I have no clue when that was done. Purchased the unit used 12 years ago. Any thoughts on where I should go from here? I have the schematic and plan on taking some voltage readings but I do not have the knowledge to know if the readings are correct or not Thanks in advance for you time and consideration. Keith
 
Well the first thing I would check is to make sure the engine is free.Crawl underneath and put wrench on the crank and try to rotate it. If the engine is indeed free, then I would check out my battery cables. I am betting the ground(negative) cable is not making GOOD connection. You can verify this with a voltmeter while trying to crank the engine-use a helper and be sure tractor is in neutral.
As far as not being able to tow it in reverse-that sounds normal-too much compression to overcome(unless engine is locked up from sitting). Mark.
 
Double an triple check each battery connection be it the ground or hot wire bet one is not good and likely to be ground problem since the fuel gauge pegs and it is likely to be your ground which is not good. Years ago I had a cub cadet come in that had a bad ground and some how the choke cable ended up being the ground and when one would try to start it the coke cable got red smoking hot needless to say it had a poor ground connection at the frame
 
(quoted from post at 11:09:51 08/25/19) Good morning, I am in need of some assistance from the folks who know. I have an IH 574 that does not want to start. I parked it two years ago by the barn and finally back at chores. But, the tractor is very angry at me. I was finally able to drag it with my F250 so a position I can work on it. And as a side note, I was unable to drag it with the tranny in reverse only natural. Not sure if that is normal or an indication of a problem. Anyway, when I try to start the tractor the fuel gauge pegs to the right, I hear what I believe to be the starter attempt to do something. Thug, but no attempt to turn over. I ve followed the advice from other threads, had the battery verified (replaced, was no good), removed solenoid and starter and had them checked (depending on the folks that checked them), good to go, checked the safety switch at the clutch lever, good. As another side note, I see electrical tape in the area of the voltage regulator. Suspicious as I have no clue when that was done. Purchased the unit used 12 years ago. Any thoughts on where I should go from here? I have the schematic and plan on taking some voltage readings but I do not have the knowledge to know if the readings are correct or not Thanks in advance for you time and consideration. Keith
Click to expand...

As the others said, first verify the engine is not stuck.

(This would include the starter being jammed into the flywheel ring gear.)

Next, where is the "ground" lead from the battery connected?

The movement of the fuel gauge makes me wonder if it's possibly connected to the steel "superstructure" of the tractor and there's rust and corrosion between that and the cast iron "body" of the tractor, causing a poor connection.

The BEST place for to connect the ground cable is to one of the started mounting bolts, but that's not always how the factory did it, perhaps to save cable, or to eliminate the "cluttered" look of a cable hanging out in the open.
 
Geez, can t believe I did not add what type of engine... gas engine... it been covered but not by a building... I will concentrate on the ground to see if there is any difference. Also, when trying to turn the crank by hand what is the best method as I do not have a socket large enough to fit the nut on the crank. Thanks so much for the replies, keith.
 
Being a gas engine pull all the plugs out but be sure you mark which plug goes to which cylinder so as to not mix up the firing order. Then because it has sat a long time I would do a wick test and make sure all the cylinders are dry and if dry put some ATF in each cylinder then make sure the fan belt is real tight and try turning the fan by hand. With the plugs out and the fan belt tight you should be able to turn it over by hand. If you cannot turn it by hand fill the cylinders with ATF and put the plugs back in and wait a week. Then pull the plugs out and while you waited you should have cleaned up all battery connections and try to spin it over with the starter using short fast taps on the starter button
 
Will do. Now, to be sure I understand the wick test... take a piece of cotton string and lower in to each cylinder after I pull the marked plugs and if there is no water inside the cylinder the string is dry and should be no issue (hopefully), but if water found, possible issue that may require I get inside the engine. Thank, Keith
 
Wick test can be done with a flexible stick or rope or any thing one can see water/oil etc. on. If one finds water it needs to be drained or other wise removed be it by suction or other such way. Once water is out one can mix some HEET with the ATF so it absorbs the water that maybe left
 
Easy way to see if it is stuck? Pull the
starter and put a prybar on the flywheel
teeth. If it isn't stuck, it will roll
over easy (make sure it's in neutral)
with the prybar. If it doesn't roll over,
you've got an issue there.
 
Rain finally gone. While I waited I purchased an endoscope and look in cylinder one tonight. I do see rust but does not appear to be a lot. Some can t be good. Would this mean I need to rebuild or can I continue to attempt turning the engine over? Or if there is rust and not to create more damage I should just look to rebuild?
 
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