Super-C not moving but still getting PTO power???

I have tried to search this problem, but don?t even know what to search for?really hope y?all can point me in the right direction.
I have a 1954 Super C that my grandfather bought new in 55. I had been mowing with it for a couple hours the other day (fast-hitch sickle bar mower); I came down a hill and turned right and the tractor just rolled to a stop. Mower still mowing, PTO still getting power, but nothing to the wheels. Depress the clutch and the pto stops spinning, let it out and she starts trying to mow again, but no locomotion in any gear. No resistance felt in the clutch, no noises, no nothin.
I didn?t hear or feel anything break or let go, but I was paying attention to going down the hill, so something might have happened and I missed it.
Did a woodruf key or something similar let go up inside? I assume I am going to need to break the tractor in half to fix this, but would like to have an idea what I am in for when I do. Any suggestions would be appreciated, as would appropriate search terms that would allow me to find the info on my own.
 
Possibly. I honestly don?t remember. More likely I was in first as I started down the and put in the clutch and brakes as I was coming down the hill in anticipation of letting it out again still in first gear at the bottom.
 
Here's something else you might try if the gears don't make any difference in the moving of it try hitting each brake pedal individually and see if it takes off if it does then you got to axle problem
 
(quoted from post at 15:25:37 08/18/19) Possibly. I honestly don?t remember. More likely I was in first as I started down the and put in the clutch and brakes as I was coming down the hill in anticipation of letting it out again still in first gear at the bottom.

So????? You rolled down the hill with the clutch pushed in and let it out at the bottom while still in low gear????

You could have broken something.
 
Diagnosis: Take the PTO out of gear. Start it and put it in first gear. Watching the right rear axle, slowly let out the clutch. If axle turns but wheel stays still the key in the axle to wheel has failed along with the clamp. Do the same for the left. If neither is turning With the clutch out and in gear, the problem is internal.
Next check the brakes are mounted on the differential pinion shafts (left and right are separate) There are little caps in the center of the brake housings. They can pry off like a wheel bearing dust cap. Removing them will not let oil out. With a mirror watch the shafts inside the cap hole. There is a slot in the end making it easy to see it turn (with a mirror on a stick) Do not lean over and look at the shaft, or get off and look at it. Stay seated to control the tractor if it decided to move on its own!!! If one is moving, and the other is not. The issue is in the final drives, or an axle has broken. As noted below, stepping on the brake (on the side turning) might make it attempt to move. More indication of final drive or axle issues on the side that was turning, not the side that was motionless. If neither was turning, the issue could be in the differential spider gears, or transmission.
From this external diagnostics you at least know where to look. The PTO is driven from the transmission top shaft, and indicates that the top shaft is working. Pulling the trans cover will be needed if it is internal. Jim
Parts diagram of final drives/differential
 
I suppose I could have, but it wasn?t like I popped the clutch in
first with it going 20 mph?I generally do have a pretty good
sense of how fast the old girl is willing to go in low gear, and
would have had her slowed right down with the brakes before
trying to make that right angle turn at the bottom of the hill.
 
(quoted from post at 07:48:18 08/19/19) I suppose I could have, but it wasn?t like I popped the clutch in
first with it going 20 mph?I generally do have a pretty good
sense of how fast the old girl is willing to go in low gear, and
would have had her slowed right down with the brakes before
trying to make that right angle turn at the bottom of the hill.

Out of gear can be out of control so I pick a ger going down and add brakes as needed.

You can do damage if you over speed the clutch disc too
 
Like I said, I don?t remember. Odds are I only hit the clutch at
the bottom because the speed was fine on the hill, but I didn?t
want the sickle bar, which was on the outside, to whip around
that fast so I brought the tractor to a stop. Sure do appreciate
the advice though; I always looking to learn a thing or two.
 
Thank you Jim! I really appreciate you taking the time to write all that out.

So when the left brake only is engaged I got nothing, but when the right brake only is engaged the tractor tries to move forward.

Not good news, obviously. Do I still need to pop the brake inspection caps and look for those turning shafts to diagnose, or do I have all the information I need?
 
It was turning in there because it would not turn if it was broken farther toward the engine. So I would find out if the right axle is snapped off internally before pulling it out of the field. Jack up and block the right axle housing so the wheel is off the ground just clearing the ground. Using your body weight try to tilt the tire outward at the top, then inward. If it wiggles a half inch the axle may be broken. Pulling it might ruin good bearings and drop the tractor on its side. If no wiggle,turn the tire and feel for chattering, or lock up rotation. If it does lock up it will not tow. Pulling the top off of the final drives and trans is reality in that case. Maybe even where it is. Winching it onto a car hauler is a real option. Jim
 
thank you to all for your help. Right axle was indeed broken off right at the splines. Really really appreciate the advice. Wouldn t be able to keep this old girl running without the help I get here!
 

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