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Cracked block

N

ncbeefjerky

New User
:cry: Just bought a Super A and after getting it cranked I found it was leaking coolant from a crack in the block after looking closer I found what looked like a weld across the block below where it is leaking now. Cranks and runs should I look for a donor engine or a different tractor with the crack I see now and the bad repair from earlier in life do not see much hope for this engine.
 
Leaking to the outside can be fixed pretty easily. Metal stitching is one way, a plate bolted over the crack is another, having it
welded is a third, ving it out a bit and using JB weld is a 4th. Give it a chance. Jim
 
I had one that had the crack and I ground it smooth and used the rubber cement they use when installing new windshields did it in the sun when the block was warm and ground a "v" It never leaked again ruffed it up and was hard to see never leaked again had the tractor for a long time.
 
(quoted from post at 11:11:50 08/10/19) Leaking to the outside can be fixed pretty easily. Metal stitching is one way, a plate bolted over the crack is another, having it
welded is a third, ving it out a bit and using JB weld is a 4th. Give it a chance. Jim
Click to expand...
What is metal stitching, I thought when you welded cast it became brittle and broke, if JB weld will hold that sounds the easiest
 
thanks for the info, what is metal stitching, I thought if you welded cast it would become brittle and break. The JB weld sounds the easiest was not sure it would hold, did not want to junk it out if there was any way I could use it
 
I was taught to drill a tiny hole in each end of the crack before
attempting a repair. It was to prevent the crack from running any further.
Has anyone else heard of this?
 
I bought a Super C with a cracked block behind the carb. I used a die grinder cut a V in the crack and filled it with JB weld, that was 20 years ago. Still use the tractor to rake hay.

APF
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:53 08/10/19) I was taught to drill a tiny hole in each end of the crack before
attempting a repair. It was to prevent the crack from running any further.
Has anyone else heard of this?
Click to expand...
Yes. That's standard operating procedure for any kind of casting repair.
 
Everyone has their opinion, mine is if
it's a common engine like an "A" get a good
block and transfer everything to it. I had
an A with a cracked block as well. I used
it for cultivating. I tried all the
different goop out there and eventually it
would always leak.
 
My super C cracked behind the carb for no reason many years ago. I drained it, veed it out & welded it with
nickel & it hasn't leaked since.
 
You have nothing to lose in trying to fix it, especially these home brew solutions such as the urethane windshield adhesive... That stuff holds CARS together, as the windshield is structural on modern vehicles.

I know a lot of guys are old school and don't believe in glue but modern adhesives have come a long way, without the risk of exacerbating the crack because you used the wrong rod, didn't do the right preheat, peened it too hard, let it cool too quickly... You just spread the glue, and you're done. As long as it's not structural.

Well, nothing to lose except the cost of a tube of adhesive.
 
Agree with the idea of trying the simple things first, glue/JB Weld.

Cost is minimal and little to loose other than a bit of time. Might even give you time to locate an old guy who knows how to weld cast iron or find a donor engine block!
 
(quoted from post at 06:13:56 08/12/19) We had an A with a cracked block, I put some stop-leak in it and it stopped leaking and we used it for years until we sold it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the replies I am going to try the easy fixes first and will post the results thanks again
 
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