10w-30 in belly pump

denglish

Member
Anybody have any problems just running 10w30 in a belly pump? The manual says 30 weight I believe.

I have an M with a Saginaw three point. I can't remember what I put in there before, but it was either 10w30 or straight 30. The oil is a little low right now. Any reason I shouldn't just add 10w30 to top off? I use the three point with an auger and with a bush hog. That's pretty much it.
 
Only one reason not to, and that is if there is another tractor with high specification oil in the hydraulics used on them. mixing the oil can be problems for the wet
clutches and brakes, and contaminate through multiple machines as they are used other places. Jim
 

Thanks. That is what I thought.

This M is leaking from the bottom where there is a four-bolt access panel on the bottom, opposite of there the fill port is on top. It looks like the previous owner used bath tub caulk to try to seal it. I have not removed it to see what the problem as it hasn't been a big problem but now seems to be getting worse.
 
That plate is a cover over a dry cavity. There is not supposed to be oil in there. There is a drive coupling between the transmission countershaft, and the belly pump
pump motor. It has 1/2" slots in it to conduct power from the trans to the pump. If there is transmission oil (smelly thick gear oil) in there it is coming from
(probably) the countershaft seal towards the rear from the coupling. if it is hydraulic oil (what ever you put in it), the pump seal has failed. It requires removing
the pump and reservoir as a unit through the bottom. The lines and controlls are removed from both sides, and the bolts holding it up are removed. It is pretty heavy,
and needs a floor jack and a helper. the coupling has right handed threads to remove it from the pump to access the seal. Stick an aluminum/brass/copper bar (flat
stock!! not round) into the pump gears from the exhaust side of the pump. This locks the gears and allows the counter clockwise removal of the round coupling. Jim
 
No it can be done from under, then on the floor, or bench if you have a floor crane/cherry picker. If the seal is bad, you will see it immediately upon removing the
cover that was erroneously sealed up. (don.t seal it up) If the transmission seals are going bad, and weaping trans oil, fixing them now is way easier than putting it
back together. Both the input shaft and countershaft seals can be accessed from under the tractor. Look up procedure for changing them in the archives. Google works
better than YT's search engine most of the time. Jim
 

Thanks. I'll search on Google. I see the big cover. I'll open it up and see what's going on. I appreciate your help!
 

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