Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Kountry Life
  
Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Head and Valve by hand

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author  [Modern View]
sald

07-04-2019 19:08:41




Report to Moderator

A week and half ago, I decided to put a snake camera into the spark plug holes on my 1940 A. I found a puddle of antifreeze sitting on top of #3 piston and could see that the head was leaking at the gasket. I immediately tore off the head and found that the gasket was in terrible shape. After more inspection I found that two exhaust valve seats were completely gone! I can't understand how the old girl even ran!. After a lot of hard work without power tools I reground the seats and lapped the new valves (purchased kit) and installed them, springs included. Guides were within in tolerance using go/no go gauge. I checked the head for flatness and found it to be .002/.003, I figured I had it opened so I used progressive sanding and got it super smooth and down to .0015/.002 I had compression of 80-85-60-85 going into the job and now after heating it up and re torque the head and setting the valves hot, I am now at 95-98 on all 4. Cylinders were all smooth and looked good. Checked all piston journals and bearings last year.
I used the tractor today for a parade and drove it 6 miles each way up a bunch of hills. I drove in 4th gear up all these hills where before the whole job I could only do in 3rd.
I am very glad I did the work it was tough and slow going but worth it.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
NawlensGator

07-06-2019 20:33:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  

Very nice work! Thanks for sharing your work and photos. I just pulled the head on a 1968 IH 140, but I sent it to the machine shop for all the surfacing and valve work. The nine 1/2" head bolts on my C123 were only threaded on the bottom with 3/4" bolt heads (and washers) on top. I used (a lot) of copper spray-a-gasket on the head gasket and head surfaces. I re-surfaced the manifold and water return nozzle also. I haven't seen water in the oil since (knock on wood). These cylinder heads are heavy duty!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Destroked 450

07-05-2019 06:31:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
Fine job sald, lots of time and work involved in lapping those valves and seats, for your use it should run a long time.

For a daily use working tractor as some have said the valve seats are a little wide but for your app it'll be ok.
On higher compression engines like my diesels sanding the head smooth and flat is a no no, the small groves the cutter wheel leaves when a head is milled flat helps hold the gasket in place and keeps it from being pushed out, again not a issue in this case.

Years ago a friend was selling off the machine shop side of his truck repair business.

I purchased his old Sioux valve grinding outfit, it's been real handy over the years.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 07:38:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to Destroked 450, 07-05-2019 06:31:54  
Thanks, you said the same thing my father did (Mechanic of yester year) He said it was low compression designed to replace the horse LOL. Yes the shoulders are at .090 and the spec is .078. I needed to keep going until I had a full seal (Tested it). If I have a problem down the road it is not like I am using it for an income. I will tend to it again. My father told me he had a valve grinder like that.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
caterpillar guy

07-05-2019 03:59:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
Looks good. On valve in head engines we have used an electric drill to lap valves like that.Just tighten the chuck on the end of the stem. Never did one with the seat in that bad of shape though. We use a pencil mark for a fit gage if it wipes a pencil mark out when turned by hand it is good.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 07:41:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to caterpillar guy, 07-05-2019 03:59:49  
I didn't want to chuck to valve stem due to not being able to control lateral movement. I did slip and air hose on the stem and hand spin in because the suction cup kept popping off LOL.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Janicholson

07-04-2019 21:58:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
I take no issue with your approach. In fact it is fine and dandy. It will run for a long time. Jim



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 07:46:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to Janicholson, 07-04-2019 21:58:53  
Thanks Jim, as others I am sure, I think your blessing is something to strive for. It was hard work but the pay off was more than I expected so I guess it was. You were the one that said it should make hills in 4th gear which is what sent me off on the hunt for why it didn't. Well it had no issue now. I have fixed the linkage issue and have it topping out at 1800 no load and 550 idle. With the 11.2 tires it was going 16 mph.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Janicholson

07-05-2019 10:05:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-05-2019 07:46:47  
Thanks. The effort you put in now makes all later work take less time because of knowledge gained and skills built. Jim



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Brown Dirt Cowboy

07-04-2019 20:20:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
from your picture that puddle of coolant is on #2 not #3



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 07:48:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to Brown Dirt Cowboy, 07-04-2019 20:20:50  
You are correct. I tried to go back and edit but could not. Good catch



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rustred

07-04-2019 20:00:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
that rough seat in the picture has had water sitting in it to corrode it like that. that's what happens to these engines that people get running that have been seized up. there is nothing in them, but yes they will run. should have had a new seat installed. plus those valve seats are waay to wide on the valve. that is the problem with lapping, it is no longer used. it is 1920's technology. the seat should be about 1/2 that width and in the centre of the valve face. with that wide of a seat good chance of carbon getting stuck in between. not running down your work as good job with what you did with what you had to work with. just that there is no such thing as lapping valves anymore. the seats are ground to 45 degrees and the valves to 44 degrees this gives a fast valve seating and if carbon should get caught inbetween it will work out.dont know how you can check valve guides with a feeler guage. about .003 is good.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 07:55:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to rustred, 07-04-2019 20:00:33  
You run precision balls through the hole. Go or No Go. I used them for gear bores when I was working in a gear house after college.
All your other points are well taken. I am not using this tractor everyday but for leisure, tooling around the roads and parades. If it ran with no seats, it will take a long time to get back that way. I was told the tractor laid around for 2 years and when they went to start it there was water in it but never seized. You cans see evidence of the water on the vale caps.Thanks

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-04-2019 19:11:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:08:41  
Have no idea why there are doubles and triples of the pictures, I only uploaded each once



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

07-04-2019 19:20:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to sald, 07-04-2019 19:11:29  
NICE work!

How's the governor working now?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sald

07-05-2019 08:00:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: Head and Valve by hand in reply to Bob, 07-04-2019 19:20:35  
Governor is fine. When I rebuilt the carb I put a rubber seal on the throttle shaft and it didn't belong there. Derrrr. It was enough resistance to keep the governor from pulling it back to idle.
It runs up the hills now. These are fun and I always loved engines and would help my father after my mother told me to. He used to yell at me and get and put back his tools but I now realize I learned a lot. I mentioned that to him yesterday and he said that never happened LOL.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Product Review - by Staff. When we finally checked out the 3000 PSI North Star, the whole story chaned. This unit was equipped with an 11 HP Honda engine with fuel shutoff, adjustable flow and optional syphon degreaser dispenser. It didn't have a pressure release or electric start to facilitate easy starting but according to the instructions, simply pulling on the trigger while cranking was sufficient. This method of starting proved more than adequate and kept the cost down on the unit. It had all the important ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: 1967 Ford 3000 [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2021 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy