Got a new coil, points, etc, for a recently brought back to life tractor, 504, now no spark. I've got 12v coming in, but nothing out of coil. Seems like a bad new coil? Constant switched 12v to one side ballast, start bypass wire to other ballast terminal, wire from that terminal to + terminal on coil. Coil -- to distributor ground. Am I missing something simple? Going from old style bullet shaped IH coil/ballast to new, IH supplied coil and ballast with common new style coil.

Background - sitting for 4 or 5 years, with little use and maintence for 10 years before that. Fresh gas and a batt got it running, and new carb even better. Only 1500 hours on it. Ran really good and used lightly for a month or so. Baling hay and started getting some black smoke, not a ton but noticed it, then it died a couple times. Could start and nurse to run with throttle. Figured condensor. Ran the next day, but synptons returned when hot after baling an hour or two. Then died for good just after the last bale at the entrance to the field. At least I got baled.
 

Um, just pulled cover off distributor and shaft is not turning when trying to start. How did I go from a little condenser to this all of a sudden??
 
Ground one lead of an unpowered test light, and connect the other to the distributor side primary terminal on the coil.

Turn on the ignition switch, and crank the engine.

What does the test light do?

It should flash on and off as the points open and close.

Then, when not cranking, should be "off" if breaker points are "closed", "on" if breaker points are "open".
 
(quoted from post at 12:20:36 06/15/19)
Um, just pulled cover off distributor and shaft is not turning when trying to start. How did I go from a little condenser to this all of a sudden??

Likely, the little pinion gear (Key # 8), and/ or the gear on the distributor have stripped.

You didn't happen to lose a condenser or breaker point mounting screw, and replace it with a longer one, did you?

(Can catch on advance mechanism and break distributor drive gears.)

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I had a 340 do that one time. Running just fine to a backfire then dead. Those gears can/will go bad in a blink of an eye with no rime or reason other then the distributor not being oil like they should be
 
You are not alone if you installed a longer screw. I have repaired a lot of distributors over the
years for that reason. It usually tears up the weight hold down cover pretty good and either strips
the drive gears or shears the pin. Can bend shaft in worst case .
 
You know, as I was doing it something was tugging at me telling me not to. Pretty sure I read about it years ago on here. Pitiful.

Not seeing timing marks on my pulley, might you know a good way to uncover them?
 

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