B Farmall gov problems

I took the gov cap off. I found that that stud that is sticking up between the 2 pieces on either
side of it rubs on the L side slightly, looking at it. I also found that the top link wobbles in
the housing. I took the inside nut off but but the piece that fastens to the spring in back dosnt
want to move inward towards the side of the cap. I also found the bearing is shot
#1 Can I move that inside piece that the spring is on either in or out. In to get it a tighter
fit, OR out to take the outside arm all the way out and figure out a way to shim the shaft running
from outside to inside
#2 How do I adjust the arm going to the carb that is off the other side of the engine from the cap.
Thanks for any help

This is a 40 B Farmall

Do you have a drawing of this? I think you can find one on the Case/IH website. The parts not lining up will be ok when it's together. You need to check two springs. One hooks to the throttle linkage and the other is in the nut under the bottom of the housing.
Keep posting.
Dave

Dave where is this spring hooked to the throttle linkage at? I have 2 springs, one on either side of the arm going into the gov on the steering wheel side. They are on the rod going to the gas lever. That and the spring inside the housing is all there is.

(quoted from post at 17:25:28 06/14/19) I took the gov cap off. I found that that stud that is sticking up between the 2 pieces on either
side of it rubs on the L side slightly, looking at it. I also found that the top link wobbles in
the housing. I took the inside nut off but but the piece that fastens to the spring in back dosnt
want to move inward towards the side of the cap. I also found the bearing is shot
#1 Can I move that inside piece that the spring is on either in or out. In to get it a tighter
fit, OR out to take the outside arm all the way out and figure out a way to shim the shaft running
from outside to inside
#2 How do I adjust the arm going to the carb that is off the other side of the engine from the cap.
Thanks for any help

Click to expand...

Internal springs are "main governor spring", (extension spring) Key #5, "governor shaft bumper spring" (compression spring) Key #26, and "governor bumper spring" (compression spring) Key #27.

Hopefully, "pin", Key # 30 hasn't gotten lost and moves freely in the governor shaft, as well.

Is this a "pulling" tractor that requires the utmost in governor response, or a "daily driver"?

If a casually-used tractor, simply replacing the thrust bearing, and making sure the parts associated with it (Key #'s 24 through 25) are present and in good condition will go a long way to making it work well.

Also, the "fingers on the "yoke" (Key #20) and the "fingers" on the weights (Key #23) should have a smoothly radiused profile. "flat spots" (likely if the thrust bearing wasn't doing it's thing) will make for sluggish governor response.

A little play in the "GOVERNOR SPEED CHANGE LEVER WITH SHAFT" (Key #4) shouldn't cause a problem, but, of course, if you are making this thing "as new" or "blueprinting" it, the housing can be "bushed" and the shaft built up or replaced, as needed. Should be some posts in the archives about that.

Those things are more important, IMHO, than your worry about the slot in the arm/yoke lightly contacting the pin, which (I think) is normal.

Hop all this rambling helps!

Bob, so your saying the shaft, #15 that has slop from # 14 to #4 isnt a problem?
I dont have a #26 spring. Does it go on the stud piece that is held back by an internal spring,
and runs up against the back of the cap?
I dont have a #27 spring either.
I have the pin #30, and it moves freely back and forth under tension when pressed inward.
Fingers? The 2 little pieces that are down low and ride in between a upraised piece built of the
bottom of the cap ride a bit to the left looking and working the yoke.
This is a tractor that is used for light work for the most part on my 10 acre farm. I have a 48 H
and a 34 CC Case for heavier work. Thanks for your reply