Rifle99

New User
On a IH Super A, can anyone tell me what type of wire I need that goes from the voltage regulator(six volt system) to the generator? The wire that was on the regulator broke when I removed the generator.It was original I assume. I tried to splice some lamp cord wire on the remaining piece and it burned up even after I shut the engine off.I don't know why it continued to draw power.Tractor died and wouldn't start after that. The original is cloth covered and multi stranded. I replaced the generator and am waiting for a new regulator to arrive. I'm hoping that one or the other was the cause of no charging. My Super A is a 1949 Industrial model.Electrical issues are a bit challenging for me. Thanks in advance.

Dan
 
There are two components in a regulator. one controls the amount of field current and that regulates the output. The other is a cutout relay that only allows the gen to be connected to the system when it is making more voltage than the battery (charging). this cutout relay was/is stuck, and causes the battery to feed into the generator. (not good because it is supposed to go the other way. When it sticks, and the tractor is shut off, the generator and wires, and relay contacts in the cutout get hot. The battery will discharge because of that backward flow, and be dead.
The wire going from the ARM (could sag GEN on the terminal) connection on the Regulator to the Arm connection on the gen should be 10 gauge stranded wire, with crimp on terminal ends. Jim
 
The wire burned up because you have a short circuit somewhere. Insulation has degraded or broken, exposing bare wire somewhere, which is touching the frame of the tractor and causing the short.

It's not complicated to rewire a Super A, and I would recommend that. Search "Bob M's Wiring Diagrams" on google for a pictoral representation of how to wire the tractor.

I would also recommend marine grade wire, which you can get online or from boating supplies.
 
NOTE once you get a new Generator and Voltage Regulator make sure to POLARIZE THE GENNY BEFORE STARTING so you don't fry a new VR. Also make sure the VR is suited for your ground (POS or NEG). There may have been other shorts that fried the wire but if the Cutout Relay stuck closed upon shutdown that can sure do it plus drain the battery. I agree with Jim, even if it were originally 12 Gauge or whatever, Id replace it with 10 Gauge stranded wire from VR up to ammeter.

John T
 
You want to look for Machine Tool Wire, marked MTW, has a tough poly-vinyl chloride insulation with a thin clear nylon cover over it. Probably as tough of insulation you can find on light gage wire.

There's a product called "Convoluted Conduit" which if you check under the hood of your car or pickup that's 25 years old or newer the automotive companies use it to bundle and protect wires from physical damage. It's available in many sizes and colors. It's the black crinkly stuff under your hood. I use it on any wire exposed to damage.

The original wire harnesses used on IH letter series tractors, with the cotton cloth covered rubber insulation are pure junk. It was State of the Art until the end of the 1950's. But the factory wire harness on my 1954 Farmall Super H was junk by 1980. Guy that sat next to me in the office of the Farmall Plant were we bought parts bought wire harnesses. I got prints of all 4 harnesses on the SH and mailed them to his favorite supplier and in a week I have 4 brand new harnesses perfectly made to the 1954 prints with 1980 materials and processes. Those harnesses are 39 years old and look like brand new while the factory harnesses were junk in 26 years.

I'd hate to have to rely on factory harnesses on a 65 year old tractor.
 
Thank you. I just received the voltage regulator from Yesterday's Tractor. It's a positive ground saddle mount with three terminals on the left side and one on the right slightly underneath. The original Delco Remy only had two terminals-one on each side. Am I correct in using only the middle terminal marked BAT and the terminal on the right? The terminals to the left and right of the BAT terminal are marked L and F. What is the correct procedure to polarize the generator? Do you do it each time that you replace the voltage regulator?

Thanks,

Dan
 

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