IH 574 PTO Problems

Hello everyone. Got a real problem with the PTO on my tractor.
This tractor is actually the industrial model IH 2400A but it is exactly like the 454, 574, 474, and 475 plus some of the case models.
It is the diesel model with the 3 cylinder engine. It has always been a very strong tractor and could mow down anything with my bush hog. HOWEVER, about 3 months ago it began to slow down when I hit heavy grass and now it is to the point where it won't even mow. it will turn but soon as I hit grass it stops.
My conclusion is the PTO clutches are worn out and need replacing.
So my question is: does anyone know how to remove that clutch pack and repair it? I have searched the internet and not much success on how to get it out of the tractor.
PLEASE don't tell me I have to split that monster. lol
Any help will be much appreciated.

Hi, the PTO clutches can be changed thru the hole in the right side of the trans/diff, just drain trans/diff/hydraulic oil but you will require a repair manual. If all hydraulics stop at same time as PTO
then it is the splines on the pressure plate that are worn.
Before doing anything to the PTO clutches check that the PTO engagement lever is operating properly first. Junk and or corrosion stops the PTO engagement lever from pulling the PTO spool valve to fully open.
Check for junk that has fallen behind the seat interfering with PTO lever, next look under the right foot rest and at the back top right over the hydraulic filter mounted on the MCV will be a rubber boot
over a spool valve, spray your favorite penetrating around the PTO lever that connects to the PTO spool valve and I have even had to lift the boot and spray under it to get the PTO spool to open properly.
There is a PTO clutch hydraulic pressure test procedure with a special adapter to connect a gauge and it should be around 220 to 250 PSI.

See photo of MCV with PTO Spool marked.

(quoted from post at 08:24:15 06/05/19) Hi, the PTO clutches can be changed thru the hole in the right side of the trans/diff, just drain trans/diff/hydraulic oil but you will require a repair manual. If all hydraulics stop at same time as PTO
then it is the splines on the pressure plate that are worn.
Before doing anything to the PTO clutches check that the PTO engagement lever is operating properly first. Junk and or corrosion stops the PTO engagement lever from pulling the PTO spool valve to fully open.
Check for junk that has fallen behind the seat interfering with PTO lever, next look under the right foot rest and at the back top right over the hydraulic filter mounted on the MCV will be a rubber boot
over a spool valve, spray your favorite penetrating around the PTO lever that connects to the PTO spool valve and I have even had to lift the boot and spray under it to get the PTO spool to open properly.
There is a PTO clutch hydraulic pressure test procedure with a special adapter to connect a gauge and it should be around 220 to 250 PSI.

See photo of MCV with PTO Spool marked.


<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto25387.jpg">

Click to expand...

OK, thanks for that information. I did check that the trash and other debris was not causing the problem. The travel of the lever appears to be ok. Guess I need to measure it tho.
Assuming it is the clutches and I can remove/replace them out that side plate, how do I get the PTO shaft out? It goes directly into that clutch pack and has to come out somehow.
My manual is coming next week and I am just trying to get all the info I can before I tackle that job.

I also ordered a gauge but have no clue as to where to get the fittings to make it work on that tractor. Thanks for your help.

Hi, have a look at this: https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/121219-d239-674-engine-manual-pdf/
It will be very helpful.

Also see this youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I72jzG8izQM

(reply to post at 12:41:49 06/05/19)

Click to expand...

Great information! The manual is very informative and takes the mystery out of the equation. The Canadian Redneck does a good job of removing that pto clutch pack. I little more detail for dummies like me would be great. Video of pulling that PTO shaft would have been great.

Jim, you are indeed an expert and after reading your post and reading volumes of information, I have decided that just MAYBE that clutch pack is not bad but maybe my hydraulic system or linkage is at fault.
SO, when I get the gauge in I will test the pressure at the MCV. The manual trouble shooting guide lists multiple items that may be at fault. The symptoms the guide describes is almost exactly what I have: everything else hydraulic on the tractor works perfectly, power steering and lift. Only the PTO doesn't work.

I will also measure the travel on that spool arm to determine if it has the correct distance.

So back to the drawing board.

Glad I could help.

It finally quit raining long enough for me to go out to the tractor and measure the distance the PTO spool arm travels. It actually only travels 15/16ths of an inch. I believe the manual reads that it should travel 1 3/16ths of an inch? That would be a lot of difference from spec.
However, as I did the measuring I noticed that the plunger appeared to not be able to travel inward any more, ie it seems that it was bottoming out. Pretty hard to tell because of the angle I was looking at it.
So question that comes to mind is: assuming it is bottoming out, can the rod be adjusted more and what good would it do? If I make the rod longer it seems it would just travel less? Confusing at the very least.

Like they said drain the oil and take the side cover off on the right hand side then go in there and take a quarter inch
roll pan punch and knocked roll pan on the shaft in the PTO drop and go to the back and take the three bolts off the
bottom it would be the 540 shaft then you can pull that up we careful cause you got to see your rings on that share
then reach in there and take that clutch pack assembly out use two C clamps compressed to the spring down far
enough so you can pop that snap ring out with the screwdriver them carefully back up back there the C clamps off
then you can disassemble all part and you can get your parts at Asap in De Soto Iowa they come with the whole kit
comes with everything and you know if the clutches linkage is sticking and all that so it?s not let me shut off but if
they slip anytime the clutch is a burned out and I?ve worked on them for 45 years it?s not a bad job but when you go
back in after rebuilt the clutch back with the new O-rings clutches and everything you got to have somebody slide
that shaft in while you hold the drum in there and lineup that with the roll hole once you get that lined up install with
three bolts in it and put your side cover off on back on and put your gauge on your line that goes into the housing so
you can check your pressures

Man!! I have to tell you this information on how to repair that clutch pack is exactly what I have searched the internet for. I have spent numerous hours looking for that info. Some people got close but left out details I really needed. Very good writeup and anybody can follow it. It is so simple once somebody describes it that has actually done it. Already ordered the clutch pack from ASAP as I do business with them all the time.
Much appreciated.
Now, here is what I have done so far. Cleaned all the grease and debris from that spool plunger and there was a lot of stuff in there. Checked it for clearance and was way out. I determined it was the linkage either worn out or bent that messed with the gap. So undid the fork and loosened it by five turns. Tolerance seemed to be about right. Put it back together and started it up and the mower started to turn without engaging the lever.
I determined that the clearance was too much but took it for a trial run anyway. Dropped that mower, fully engaged, on some 2 foot tall grass and it never even slowed down.
Mission accomplished!! Thanks to you all for the help.

Referring to the spool clearance/tolerance i now know why they say the tolerance MUST be a certain distance. BECAUSE if your tolerance is too much, the mower will turn even when it is NOT engaged. Tomorrow i will make that gap exactly to tolerance.

Thanks again.