advice on old Mayrath paddle conveyor

Noelke

Member
Was given an old Mayrath 32 ft conveyor that sat out in a pasture for decades un used after local feed store got an auger truck. I put a PTO hook up on the drive shaft and for last few years I Have been using it to load grain from hopper bottom trucks into our feed bins a few times a year. It runs ok but not sure how fast to run it. Also the drive chain and the conveyor chains both seem loose. The conveyor chain has what looks like adjustment nuts on a set of spring loaded bolts at the top but they don t seem to do much. For now I just throttle up until it rattles and then back off but it takes about five hours to unload a 25 ton truck. The bearings all seem ok the rattle seems to come from the chain skipping on the drive sprocket at the bottom. Would sure appreciate some input or an operators/service manual.
Thank you
Aubrey
 
If the chains are loose they may be stretched/worn either condition changes the pitch of the chain.
(holes/rollers too far apart) this causes radical sprocket wear, jumping teeth, and can only be
fixed with new chain. If the design is like most, the upper end is where the tension is applied to
the primary conveyor chain. Measure the pitch by putting some tension on the drive side and putting
a ruler on ten links. then divide by 10 to find an approximation of the pitch. If is not a
standard pitch or very close, it will need to be changed. Sprockets run with stretched chain often
show wear that looks like a buzz saw tooth, slanting in one direction. If the pitch is OK, and the
sprockets are usable (pictures help) a link on the drive chain, and more than one link on the
conveyor chain can be removed. Jim
 
Just some wild thinking here:
If the drive sprocket teeth have developed the hook shape, can the sprocket be installed facing the other way? If feasible, this would give a new wear surface that might work ok until new chain could be bought.
 
Yes No Maybe. The issue is pitch error. If it was reversed, the sharp edged teeth (now kinda
newish) would tend to catch even more than before. Also assuming it was possible to reverse the hub
and retain alignment. Replacing the elevator chain would (if found) be pretty expensive when
considering the slow productivity of the conveyor when totally repaired. Jim
 

Flat chain or roller chain? If flat chain I would first try removing a link or two and then see if you can get it tight with the adjusters.
Also there should be a number on each link telling what size it is-42, 55, etc. A good source for new chain is farmchains.com.
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:38 06/01/19) Yes No Maybe. The issue is pitch error. If it was reversed, the sharp edged teeth (now kinda
newish) would tend to catch even more than before. Also assuming it was possible to reverse the hub
and retain alignment. Replacing the elevator chain would (if found) be pretty expensive when
considering the slow productivity of the conveyor when totally repaired. Jim
I have replaced a wobbly sprocket on the small drive chain at the bottom and swapped out the chain. Still seems loose but definitely doesn t skip. No uneven wear. The bigger slop seems to be in the elevator chain. Which does under load does skip. Causing rattle. Any tips on how to remove a link or two? It is made up of flat rectangle links. On a separate note how fast would a rebuilt conveyor like this unload a 25 ton truck into a 18 ft tall bin.? It maybe I am expecting too much...
 

The flat chain is made to come apart. It helps to have a tool like this:


mvphoto37017.jpg



mvphoto37018.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:12:20 06/01/19)
The flat chain is made to come apart. It helps to have a tool like this:


mvphoto37017.jpg



mvphoto37018.jpg
do the teeth all engage at once or is it just an assortment for larger and smaller chains? could you just use a punch? Also curious if you need a connection link or do they just pop back together. Appreciate the help don t want to trash the chain not sure about f I could get a replacement
Thanks
 
Agreed that one has to figure out if the takeup sprocket is moving to tension the chain, or if the takeup travel is maxed out then its time to remove a link.

I also have seen the worn sprocket phenomenon where the chain will constantly "climb" the teeth and skip. There is no fix other than a new sprocket made with the proper pitch, or to attempt a repair, something like welding up the pockets and trying to die-grind the pockets back to their intended shape and depth.
 
(quoted from post at 12:41:14 06/02/19) ]
do the teeth all engage at once or is it just an assortment for larger and smaller chains? could you just use a punch? Also curious if you need a connection link or do they just pop back together. Appreciate the help don t want to trash the chain not sure about f I could get a replacement
Thanks[/quote]


The tool I showed is set up for different sizes of chain. You don't HAVE to have one, it just makes the job a little easier. A close examination of the chain will show you how it comes apart and how to turn the links to make that happen.
And, as I mentioned in my earlier post, once you figure out exactly what size chain you have, check with farmchains.com about getting replacement links.
 
lowered everything to ground level yesterday and it looks like the adjuster is seized up. Soaking it now hopefully it will free up. The links just fold and then slide apart pretty easy, should have checked it out before asking.
Anyone out there have experience using one to load grain into bins? Curious how fast it will be compared to say a six or eight inch auger if I can get it running smooth.

Thank you for the help
 
If the links can be taken apart by sliding them as you indicate, they are worn to/beyond specification. Do not
tighten the chain more than needed to keep it from skipping. Finding and buying new chain may be expensive! you
know the delivery rate, and can project the moved volume if it was up to full PTO speed by estimate. New or used
augers will have specifications. Good luck. Jim
 

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