Update on 560 clutch problem

Bud Kaiser · May 31, 2019

Thanks for all yall's responses. I took the linkage off and seen for myself that the T/A does not seem to effect the clutch operation. I then adjusted everything back to spec and clutch and T/A work fine. It is working ok now ( do not understand why sometimes ok then a few days later grinds when putting in gear but I did idle it down to from 750 to 600 rpm"s that's as low as it will go) but I will try to make thru hay season then put a main clutch,pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing in it. With all the junk rebuilt parts where are yall having the best luck on clutch parts?
Thanks:

Janicholson · May 31, 2019

Right here on YT store. Jim

used red MN · Jun 1, 2019

I almost added this to your other post but you had a lot of replies leading you in the right direction there. Okay, plain and simple do this and it will tell you if your clutch is releasing properly. Put your tractor in gear continue hold the clutch down with the tractor stopped. Now move the gear shift to neutral for a second or so then pull it back in gear. If the gears do not grind the clutch is releasing properly and there is nothing dragging to start the main shaft spinning to cause grinding or gear teeth clash. If this test shows no problem then it simply means during other shifting exercises when you experience grinding you are not waiting long enough for the transmission shaft and gears to stop spinning. There can be temperature affects and linkage binding that may cause intermittent shifting issues, but this test will indeed tell you if it needs to be split and repaired.

Janicholson · Jun 1, 2019

Hytran in the gear box is much thinner than the 90wt of an H or M, the gears tend to stay moving much longer than in the used to. Good point. Jim

Update on 560 clutch problem

Bud Kaiser

Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

used red MN

Well-known Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

Similar threads