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changed governor spring

S

sald

Member
Hello,
I did my first long trip (3 miles) on my 1940 Farmall A. I did it in 4th gear mostly except for two large hills in which I used 3rd gear. My plan is to mark the throttle lever position at 1540 rpm no load and then have a reserve to go up to 2000 if needed. I changed my governor spring to one for a 240 and am able to achieve 1950-2000 no load. I have everything adjusted as per the manual as it was before the change. I just can't get it to idle at 550rpm anymore. I got to 750rpm but did it by messing with the Throttle lever to governor rod length (I have an adjustable knuckle on it because I have a foot pedal accelerator) and the governor to carburetor rod.Any ideas are welcome.
 
Set the governor-to-carb rod as it's supposed to be, the carburetor throttle lever should hit the end of it's travel in the "wide open" position JUST BEFORE the arm on the governor hits the end of it's travel in the "wide open" direction, then LEAVE IT ALONE!

Any chance the screw with the "bumper spring" inside is screwed in too far?

Will it idle any slower if you disconnect the "input" rod from the governor so the shaft with the flat steel lever can rotate any more in the "idle" direction, backing off the "pull" on your new governor spring even more?

If NOT, and it's important to you that it idle down more, take the governor housing off again and see if you can (perhaps using a die grinder) take a little metal off the backside of the internal lever, and whatever exactly it hits on to stop it's travel in the "idle"/"release tug on the spring" direction, so it can move a bit farther.
 
The bumper spring seems to be ok, I had that adjusted since last year when I put in a new original number governor spring.
If I back up (shorten) the governor input rod, yes it will drop down, but so will my top end speed. It seems like I can't have both. I guess I could live with the higher idle. The funny thing is if I push the governor to carb toward the front the idle will drop but then pops back up when I let go.
Should I back the bumper spring out?
 
Is it possible to make a new hole in the throttle hand lever where the rod attaches "higher up" to give a longer "arc" of movement and more travel of the throttle rod?

Sounds like more travel of the rod would solve the problem, if you can achieve that.
 
Has anyone put there changed put their spring? Can not drill holes because I have a foot accelerator with linkage.
The stiffer spring will not release enough tension for the carb idle stop from coming to a rest.
 
I have used that spring and have no problem with idle speed. I do repair the input shaft slop by boring the hole and installing a 5/8x1/2 bushing then setting linkage to the carb like its supposed to be
 
Did you have the hooks on the spring facing out and did the shaft rotate as supposed. Always check the shaft so it can move free from hi to low. What kind of a hill that the tractor wouldn't pull in 4th something is wrong if it didn't that should tell you something.
 
@Gene,
Yes the hooks are facing outward as per the manual and the original spring. When I set the governor to carb linkage per the book I can feel tension on the governor spring and it will not drop back below 1000rpm unless I shorten the linkage.
 

@Gene,
I got things close to what I want. I have to lower the throttle arm off the sector to get it to idle at 550 otherwise it is 700 or so. I think I want to do the bushing you mentioned the linkage doesn't seem to want to return all the time. You said "input shaft" is it what the arrow is pointing at in this picture?
 

cvphoto24704.jpg
 
YES that's the one. Some have a bad wobble theen when you look at any play in the linkage it not hard to see that a little play here and then not having the linkage set it makes for poor throttle response. I would remove the screw holding the bumper spring and see if that will give better idle. Those springs can be a problem. Local ACE hardware has great supply of springs that work for the bumper spring. I am running a couple of the 240 springs but have also rebuilt the govs.I have no idle or top speed problems hope this info gets you on the rite track.
 
Reading about the foot throttle you mite want to unhook it so its out of the system till you gt changes made then when hand throttle is up to par and working good then hook up the foot devicee it could be part of your problem now. Still don't see why it wont go up a steep hill in 4th.
 
Thanks, I did remove the linkage on the pedal because that was causing some issues. I have it set to get me only to about 1700 rpm and the lever to get me to 1920. I should qualify, I stalled ONCE going up a steep hill by my house with out much of lead. I was on the hill at 1/2 throttle and I think the governor was too slow to react and I stalled. I have been under the assumption since that I couldn't go up this hill in 4th. I will try this weekend. Thanks, I will post back here after I try removing the bumper spring.
 
Installed new bushing from TractorSupply and changed bumper spring from ACE.
No change. I see that the new governor spring for the 240 has the slightest tension when the throttle arm comes to rest at idle. The old spring was longer and the arm had no resistance. 1/8" longer would fix it. Both spring holes are perfectly round.
 
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