656 draft control reassembly

In the middle of repairing quadrant leaks and wish i had a camera...
I may need a few hints about reinstalling the lift cylinder when i get to the linkages. The part i am most unsure about is the trigger lever (the lever that tapers to a point). Not 100% sure whether it is forward of or behind the pin of the control valve (the only link pin you need to remove to remove the lift cylinder assembly). These parts are top middle of the open housing, to the left of the red cylinder in the attatched picture. I cannot see exactly what i need to in this picture, but a 504 looks pretty close to a 656 at this focal range.

Should be nearly leak free when i"m done!

thanks
karl f
ps thanks to charles todd for letting me "steal" your picture.

Untitled URL Link

Learned this trick from a feller that has been working on IH tractors all his life:

Pull the standpipe and put the cover back on.

Allan

The trigger goes between the legs of the valve link in front of the pin if it"s like a 544 (which I think it is).

I have to do the same thing as soon as I get time and for the same reason: the draft control shaft is leaking. Again. And so is the draft control rod.

That's the most intelligent thing I've heard about the quadrant leak!!!!!

I've pulled my hair out working on those IH lifts. They ain't like a Ford! Did steal Ferguson's ideas though like all tractor makers have done over the year. Had to! Only way to go!

Zane

Allen--
gotta pull the cylinder out of the way anyhow to get at the standpipe more easily. It is in the rear under the casting over the rockshaft--above the top of the photo. the tall drain plug is in the front left (would be the lower right of the picture--it"s absent in the sample pic), but i think want all the oil to drain out the rear standpipe hole as designed with or without the pipe in place.
this begs another question: how is the differential lubed? the parts diagrams show a manifold, and i"m wondering where that gets its oil supply. If it is the standpipe i definitely want the oil going where it is supposed to, since this tractor is still used for heavy drawbar work.

thanks
karl f

Let me go at this another way.

With the cover off, start the tractor. You'll notice that the cavity fills with oil right up to within about a 1/4" of the spilling over the top.

Okay, now remove that tall drain plug (I call it a standpipe). Start the tractor again. Notice how the oil level is now BELOW the quadrant shafts?

You've just fixed your leak.

Allan

Allen, you are talking about removing the 3" long bullplug that is at the top of your picture right?(your picture looks at the housing from the passenger side rear wheel with the front to the right)

On my 2606 industrial, it doesn"t have all the guts in there but the long bullplug screws into a hole directly under the round flanged casting about where the rust spot is in the casting. I removed it to get the oil level down a few inches and cleaned out the sludge in the bottom at the same time.

Mine also has a open top round metal tube stand pipe in bottom left corner in your picture (which I can"t see so it must be under the oil) which basically keeps fluid a certain level in the housing to keep parts from rusting (I guess). However my metal stand pipe is welded to a plate that bolts up to the housing from the rear end side. There was no easy way to remove that stand pipe without a sawzall or hack saw blade so I left it.

By the way for inquiring minds, the oil inlet for the housing is just above the pressure relief valve in the lower right hand corner. The oil comes in down towards the bottom of the cavity and from the block that is attached on the outside of the housing to the right of the pop off valve.

That pop off valve in the bottom right corner was what I found had a piece of metal (maybe part of the broken spring) that was holding the ball open. I"d run the tractor with the cover off and oil would just come bubbling out of it. Put it in a vise to push the ball in and the metal piece that was about a quarter inch long fell back inside the valve. I"m keeping an eye on it.

Allen, thanks for the clarification of your terminology. I would prefer to call that a (tall) plug, and the tube in the rear the standpipe, as the tube in the rear is a drain pipe and is also the device keeping the oil level so high.
I am still uncomfortable removing the front drain plug until i know more about the overflow plumbing to the differential and suction tube.
I have no problem removing the drain tube in back if it is removable since the oil will still all go where it is supposed to, and at a much lower oil level.
I would guess i get caught up in details sometimes!
karl f

No,

In my picture, the drainpipe has already been removed.

All it does is keep the oil level high and it's removal does not effect the operation of the tractor in any way.

Allan

On the 656 I have pto taken out replacing torsion bar seal is there anything I can do from this end to help draft leak or do I have to remove lift cover?