1066 injection pump

CJW100

Member
New problem with the injection pump. I retimed the injection pump slightly ahead to see if I could get it to run. Set it to 18 degrees and took the pump off moved it to 20. Put it all back together and she?ll run on ether but just send a plume if white smoke in the air. So I figure it was still behind so I move it to 22 degrees on time. Still the same thing. Any ideas? I don?t know what to do I don?t want to go to far ahead of time. Any ideas are appreciated
[video play=false:654c4848f0]https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo22263.mov[/video:654c4848f0]
 
Are you sure it's not 180 degrees out of time? That pump runs at crankshaft speed, but the hydraulic head turns 1/2, same as the engine camshaft. When correctly timed two degrees either way from 18 won't make much change, 1566 is even set at 15 degrees. When timed right they start well. If you have fuel injecting on cylinder one exhaust-intake overlap when six is on compression, it's 180 off. When I put those pumps on, not knowing if it was timed on removal, I leave the front gear cover off until I here the engine start and run. If no start, I retime the engine, remove the pump gear bolts and turn pump cam ONE turn and reset timing.
 
I rotated the pump gear one turn still won?t start is kicking a little harder when turning over. Any ideas?
 
What's the whole story on the pump/engine? There's a gear inside the pump that can fail inside, and throw the pump INTERNAL timing off. I've also seen the tappet guide sleeve in the housing drift up, keeping the plunger from going down during the charging cycle, no start when that happens either.
 
My grandpa took the injection pump off a decade ago to get it rebuilt and tried once to get it to run and never could it?s a hydro so I couldn?t do much but bale so he hasn?t really cared much about it but I hate to just have it sit there and do nothing. The injection pump should be just like new and the engine was just fine before he took the pump in to get rebuilt. I wasn?t Sure if I was getting fuel through the pump so I loosened the injector line at the head and fuel cane out so I should have fuel to the cylinders. I just can?t figure out what?s wrong with the timing. Maybe restart all over? I just don?t know where to go from here.
 
A lot of pumps I repair that have set without running usually have stuck internal parts, as the fuel gets stale. Did you loosen ALL six injector line nuts, and see fuel at each one? Also throttle MUST be opened at least 1/3 for the excess fuel cylinder to work right, NEVER start an Ambac M100 pump at idle. If you like, call my cell tomorrow, 574 835 3292. You should not need to try any other timing mark than 18 degrees BTDC either. If pump is out of time it does not have to come off, it can be reset through the pump gear cover opening.
 
Sounds good I?ll have to give you a call tomorrow. How do you change the timing of the pump itself?
 
Pump INTERNAL timing is done with different thickness buttons between the tappet and plunger, in most pumps seldom need changed. I suspect you have other issues, how is the engine cranking speed? If too slow it will never start.
 
I can't get a video to attach but its cranking really good, shouldn't be a problem there. is there a way I can look in the head to see if I'm 180 out or is that only at the injection pump?
 
U can remove the side cover on the inj. pump, 4 flathead screws.
Look inside & you should see a line on the gear inside coming around when your on or coming up to #1 compression stroke.
NO line in the window means your not on #1..
The line inside the pump wont be centered, its just to tell u your on #1..
Good luck.
 

[video play=false:654c4848f0]https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo22319.mov[/video:654c4848f0]



Finally got the video to load this is after I rotated the pump one turn
 
If that pump has been sitting for an extended period without being used I would want to check to see if the metering sleeve is stuck, or the control stuck. Pull the four screw side cover off and see if the linkage moves when you adjust the throttle leaver. Al
 
Lets start over.. when u put the pump on ORIGINALLY.. Obviously u saw the pointer on the pump & a timing line on the pump drive, right?
When u got the pump back, was the drive shaft LOCKED onto the pointer mark.??
IF NOT, how did u line up the hub mark inline w/ the pointer.??
Are u SURE the pump was on #1.?? Are u SURE the ENGINE is/was on 18* BEFORE TDC..
Theres a special tool that holds the drive shaft/intravance to the pointer & u take it out & replace it w/ a pipe plug after the pump has been installed..
Did u hafta do any of that.??
 
The first time when we got it back we had it on 18 degrees never moved it I assume, and the pump was lined up on the mark and we put it in. So is there another mark in the front when you take the cover off? My grandpa did it the first time so im assuming he took the pump off at the right mark.
 

cvphoto22439.jpg


What am I looking for in this? Is there a mark somewhere? Or is it in the other cover?
 

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