dgoodman2

Member
Any one know how well these sway bars work. ? I would ge making something similar. Anyone added chains instead? Options?

How necessary is the double cylinders? Mine only has one. I didn't have any trouble using 7' disk. What could I not pick up with one?


cvphoto21924.png
 
that hitch looks a lot like my Worksaver brand hitch. The sway bars work good. On my other aftermarket 3 point the sway bars are similar but come from the inside and they also seem to work well. On the second one, I believe is a Cornhusker, the sway bars can be adjsuted, by removing a pin, to wok with category 1 or category 2 implements. Chains probably would work also but I haven't used that method
 
I have 2 cylinders opn both of my hitches. On the worksaver they are double action cylinders so I can put down pressure on it. A single cylinder will respond quicker than 2 because you don't have the volume of oil to move. To me the 2 cylinder setup seems more "balanced" especially if you are going to put down pressure on the hitch
 
(quoted from post at 23:52:03 05/03/19) Any one know how well these sway bars work. ? I would ge making something similar. Anyone added chains instead? Options?

How necessary is the double cylinders? Mine only has one. I didn't have any trouble using 7' disk. What could I not pick up with one?


<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto21924.png">
that's a Saginaw hitch no longer made. I have one and have to get on those stabilizers pretty good or they can slip I normally take a boxed end wrench and hang over the adjustment bolts give it a little extra tightness. which ever one you have keep an eye on the mounting bolts I ripped out the side of that 1-1/2 tubing and the bolt pulled free dropping that side almost to the ground
 
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto21924.png">[/quote]

I'll second that. I ripped the mounting bolts out of my brackets using my Saginaw 3 point last year. Some guys on here said to double up the mounting brackets and to add adjustable links from the hitch to the drawbar anchor. I just finished reinstalling it this week with the improvements.
 
Dan can you post a rear pic of that. I'm beefing mine up now and was already planning to go to belly anchor.
 
I've never considered doubling the mount hardware but was wondering his strong it is. Does ripping off happen often.
I can see with a disk or similar probably be fine. But put some kind of blade on it and then you will find weak spot.
 
I've probably only used mine 10 hours tops. All was going well until I tried doing landscaping for about an hour using a 7' blade with down pressure. Do a search for Saginaw to read my thread.
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I just installed this same hitch on my 51 H. Can anyone who uses this setup tell me if there is a way to limit the down stroke? I want to be able to lower the shredder attached to the hitch and have it stop an inch or so before it hits the ground. I don't have enough adjustment in the hitch components to accomplish this, or else I am missing the bigger picture.
 
What a great suggestion. I bought a set this AM at Tractor Supply, put them on, and the problem is solved. Now I owe you two favors...first the decal, and now the knowledge. Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 21:04:06 05/05/19) Could you just put stop collars on the cylinders? Ellis
I am not a stop collar expert, but my father told me he used a stop collar to hold up his rough cut mower and it slid, boogered up his shaft, which then cut his cylinder seal. Based on this, I'd be nervous about lock collars. Did he do something wrong? I don't know.
 

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