Sleeve Overbore? Help!?

dwasill

New User
I just picked up a 1947 Farmall H and someone in their infinite wisdom thought a cherrybomb/glasspack muffler that terminated INSIDE the exhaust pipe was a suitable replacement for the 26 dollar muffler they took off... Suffice it to say the engine was siezed with 3 of 4 pistons significantly locked up.

With a fair amount of persuasion I got all the pistons out yesterday and am looking at what will be needed for rebuild. Surprisingly the block, crank, camshaft and valvetrain look to be in great shape so I'm hoping to simply do an in-frame resleeve/rebuild.

So my primary question is on the overall kits that specify an 'overbore' are they expecting the sleeves to be removed, block bored then resleeved? I prefer to skip any boring step and simply resleeve as like I said the block and rest of workings appear to be in great shape...
 
no block work needed. Just get the old sleeves out and install the new. With the overbore kit you
will have biger pistons. Unless someone has allready done this before.
 
IIRC, the thin sleeve and popup pistons (available here on the YT stores listing) will be comparable to a Super H in
power. The H bore increase to 3-7/16 is not quite Super H 3-1/2 but they work well. Jim
 
So does this mean the block bore is typically consistent and the 'overbore' is a thinner sleeve wall cylinder (i.e. larger piston bore)? Near as I can tell the engine is all original. Present measured piston size is 3-3/8 (3.375) or are there cases where the block is bored to a larger diameter sleeve size?
 
The 3-7/16 over bore fits into the H block with no changes. It is a thin sleeve. The use of a Super H thin sleeve
would require the casting to be bored to fit larger Outside diameter sleeves found in a Super H. Jim
 
When you purchase an overbore kit specifically for a Farmall H (non-Super) the sleeves will fit in the stock parent/block bore. They are simply thinner-walled to accommodate larger pistons.
 
Does anyone have a recommendation for a sleeve puller? I found a made-to-order custom one on Ebay for a hundred bucks which looks like it would work well but I need to know the block's bored diameter (I know the inner sleeve diameter), anybody happen to know what that is?

Thanks for all the great info BTW :)
 
I have made sleeve pullers in the past. You will need some heavy flat bar (1" to 1-1/4" wide) and some 5/8" all thread. Cut/grind the flat bar a little smaller than the parent bore and grind a little lip to catch the sleeve. Drill a hole in it for the flat bar and pull away. Just make sure you are pulling on the sleeve when you start. I have done two Farmall's that way.

OTJ
 
the sleeve outside diameter is 3.5625 as is the block bore without sleeves. I have in the past used
stock domed pistons out of a 300 farmall that has the 169 engine. The stock bore in that motor is
3.5625 so they can be ran in the h 152 with no sleeves. had to use a 350 head gasket because of the
counter bore step down left because of no sleeve.
 
(quoted from post at 07:01:48 04/30/19) Does anyone have a recommendation for a sleeve puller? I found a made-to-order custom one on Ebay for a hundred bucks which looks like it would work well but I need to know the block's bored diameter (I know the inner sleeve diameter), anybody happen to know what that is?

Thanks for all the great info BTW :)

I bought one of those on eBay a couple of years ago. Well worth the hundred bucks and then I didn't have to mess around trying make something.
 

Next million dollar question, has anyone pulled an H engine? I've got the block nearly completely stripped though it's not clear how/where to access the connection points between the engine and transmission? I'd prefer to leave the transmission in the frame (if at all possible) and simply pull the block.

Having removed the water jacket and oil galley plates I'm seeing 72 years of buildup that I simply can't ignore in my rebuild so I'd like to pull the block to hot-tank and figured I could likely have the machine shop do the re-sleeve for me...
 
There is a olt inside the starter hole. (use a good light to see it. The alignment pins at the side frame rails can be removed by using a stack of washers under the nut. Jim
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top