424 missing after running 25 minutes

My 424 runs great pulling a plow for about 25 minutes . It then start missing under load as if it is flooding. I can raise the plow and it usually seems to " clear " the flooding or stop sputtering. So far I have eliminated : clogged gas cap vent, distributor timing . Beginning to believe it is my coil but was wondering if anyone has any other ideas about things to check before I start changing parts . Would a bad condenser allow it to run great for 25 minutes and then start sputtering or flooding ? The condenser and points probably have less than 20 hours on them . I did install a new aftermarket distributor several months ago which solved problem caused by slop in the old distributor shaft .
 
Run it till you have a problem. Then leave it running and spit on the coil and it the spit steams off fast good chance your coil is going bad or if it is so hot you can not touch it that too says bad coil
 
Yes it can but not likely. When a coil goes bad it has an internal short o it gets hot. Never seen a coil that is not getting hot be bad unless it is so bad it has an open and if it had an open it will not even make a spark so that in turn causes a no run condition
 
Warren to your question " Would a bad condenser allow it to run great for 25 minutes and then start sputtering or flooding"

ANSWER Sure that's (among many other) a possible cause of your problem.

If its NOT a fuel issue or sticking carb needle n seat or a carb or gas delivery related problem ???? A couple ignition related problems that can occur AFTER WARM UP (among others) may be a faulty Condensor or a faulty Coil. Either can perform fine when cool but break down only after they heat up. A coil typically runs warm, but they should NOT get so hot you cant stand to lay and keep your hand on them.

If you can check for spark immediately when she cuts out, look for a good visible blue NOT any faint thin wimpy yellow spark. If the spark appears weak or non existent once warmed up and cutting out is NOT a carb or fuel problem, since a condenser is much cheaper then a coil and especially since so many new ones are bad out of the box nowadays, you might first check and replace the condenser n see what happens. Coils can break down once warmed up also but they cost more then a condenser.

Let us know what you find.

John T
 
(quoted from post at 08:43:56 04/29/19) Warren to your question " Would a bad condenser allow it to run great for 25 minutes and then start sputtering or flooding"

ANSWER Sure that's (among many other) a possible cause of your problem.

If its NOT a fuel issue or sticking carb needle n seat or a carb or gas delivery related problem ???? A couple ignition related problems that can occur AFTER WARM UP (among others) may be a faulty Condensor or a faulty Coil. Either can perform fine when cool but break down only after they heat up. A coil typically runs warm, but they should NOT get so hot you cant stand to lay and keep your hand on them.

If you can check for spark immediately when she cuts out, look for a good visible blue NOT any faint thin wimpy yellow spark. If the spark appears weak or non existent once warmed up and cutting out is NOT a carb or fuel problem, since a condenser is much cheaper then a coil and especially since so many new ones are bad out of the box nowadays, you might first check and replace the condenser n see what happens. Coils can break down once warmed up also but they cost more then a condenser.

Let us know what you find.


Thanks-Will do. Have to find time to get at it again but will report back. The fact that it consistently does the same thing after running for about 25 minutes makes me doubt it being fuel delivery as it seems more likely that an electrical component is getting hot and causing bad spark which causes flooding sputtering . Frustrating but I will just work process of elimination until I get it .

John T
 
Warren - just a thought - make sure there is nothing loose floating around in your tank. I had issues like this a few years ago with my 2424 and there turned out to be a chunk of a twig, or golden rod stem, that would get sucked into the fuel outlet every so often.

Tim
 
You ask "Can it be bad if it is not getting hot ? "

YES it can still have voltage breakdown once warmed up even if not extremely HOT. It should run warm but NOT so hot you cant keep your hand on it.

John T
 

Remove the valve cover and check the clearance gap on the valves. I'll bet the clearance is not enough, and goes away completely when the engine gets warm. 25 minutes is about right.
 
(quoted from post at 13:41:57 04/29/19)
Remove the valve cover and check the clearance gap on the valves. I'll bet the clearance is not enough, and goes away completely when the engine gets warm. 25 minutes is about right.

Will do-Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 13:41:57 04/29/19)
Remove the valve cover and check the clearance gap on the valves. I'll bet the clearance is not enough, and goes away completely when the engine gets warm. 25 minutes is about right.

That was it ! Thanks. One valve had inadequate clearance. Running good now. I had adjusted them couple months ago but guess I missed that one.
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:29 04/30/19)
(quoted from post at 13:41:57 04/29/19)
Remove the valve cover and check the clearance gap on the valves. I'll bet the clearance is not enough, and goes away completely when the engine gets warm. 25 minutes is about right.

That was it ! Thanks. One valve had inadequate clearance. Running good now. I had adjusted them couple months ago but guess I missed that one.

Good to know.
 

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