why are these bolts sticking out?

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why are these two bolts sticking out? Do they adjust something in the alternator and starter? they don't seem loose. I'm assuming I just leave them as is and not tighten them. and that wire with the boxy black end, coming from the bunch of wires at the starter also joining to positive battery cable, where does it plug into? it's all dirty as if it had never been attached to anything.
 
The one on the alternator is a ground.Usually not needed because it grounds through the mounting bolts. The one on the starter(I think) is for starting a gas engine. Hooked to the coil,it delivers a full 12volts for starting. after you let off the ky,voltage drops back to 6Volt. Not to worry,what you see it normal. If everything works,dont mess with it. Steve
 
Another question: I looked this other bolt up, and it says it's a crankcase water drain plug. I didn't know oil normally gets that much water in it to have to drain it off. How long do you typically go before checking that drain for water, and how much water do you find comes out? I went all last year without knowing about it, so never drained it at all. I'm sure it depends on the tractor, but what's an average?
 
It maybe the picture, or the way I'm looking at it, but the capscrew that attaches the starter lead strap to the solenoid looks loose to me and discolored like it has been hot. It might be "welded" in place from arcing and seem tight. I've seen that happen before.

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which bolt are you referring to ? if you have water in the crankcase you have big engine problems. plus never even heard of that. maybe you are talking about the block drain for the coolant??? plus that solenoid lower small bolt has to be tight. the other wire goes to the S terminal. the R terminal has no wire. and that alternator bolt was for holding the wiring harness with a clamp on automotives, as that's where the alternator most likely came from.
 
jim.ME, I noticed that one, too. I just came in, but when I go back out, I'll see if it moves with a wrench. I just tested if they were really loose or not lightly by hand. Didn't want to really tighten anything anyway, until I knew it is supposed to be tightened. If the one you circled can be tightened, I'll tighten it all the way down. I think that's what you're saying to do.
 
rustred, the shop manual picture calls it a crankcase water drain plug. So I thought, I know where the water drain is for the fuel and why would there be another one of those, and I know coolant is part water but that shouldn't separate to the bottom and so what if it did it would still work, and so the only other fluid left is the oil. That's what I said, too, I never knew there was a drain for water in the oil! So ... since this shop manual is 45 years old, I'm wondering if when these tractors came out they only used water instead of antifreeze, and that is the confusion. I bet that is it. I bet it is an antifreeze (not "water") drain plug. And I was referring to the 2 bolts that are each the furthest unscrewed, one in each of the two pictures, and showing dangling wire in the other picture.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:18 04/28/19) jim.ME, I noticed that one, too. I just came in, but when I go back out, I'll see if it moves with a wrench. I just tested if they were really loose or not lightly by hand. Didn't want to really tighten anything anyway, until I knew it is supposed to be tightened. If the one you circled can be tightened, I'll tighten it all the way down. I think that's what you're saying to do.

The screw through the copper starter-solenoid strap into the solenoid post should have an internal tooth lockwasher next to it's head.

Be careful not to break it off, if it's welded in place, or is the wrong screw and is "bottomed out".
 
Bob, okay, I'll keep that in mind. Luckily I got sidetracked outside and did something else and didn't go cranking on the bolt.
 
A little water in the oil is pretty normal in cold climates if you don't drive the vehicle very far between starts. I have seen a little water come out when you remove the drain plug a few times, never seemed to cause a problem, never got deep enough for the pump to pick it up.
 
I got it. Backed out that loose bolt that is supposed to be tight, all the way out and cleaned it, and it went back in easy all the way. Thanks for pointing that out, that it should be tight. The tractor is ready to go except I'm waiting on the oil filters. Oil is here waiting to be added. The guy at the tractor store gave me synthetic oil. I didn't notice that until today. I was planning on getting conventional. Well, that'll be ok, right? Filled the battery with distilled water yesterday and used the fancy multimeter and it read 12.47 just sitting there alone right after water was added. That's good. Put on the new negative cable and refitted the positive to a new battery clamp. Hydraulic is changed and ready to go. Might do a few more things. I can't wait to start it up. Last ride was, hmm, maybe October? GOing to be rainy all week to add to the mud that's already here. I can drive around the block though.
 

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