International farmall 1066 free but needs repair

Hello All,

Newbie here, well new to a International tractor. Here's the story, I have a neighbor that has told me if I want his International 1066 I can have it but it needs some repairs. I have looked at the tractor and it looks in decent sharp for a 1972 Farmall 1066, tires are ok, loader is in good shape and the motor is strong. Here comes the issues, I guess the torque amplifier is gone in it, and the steering and brakes are sometimes wacky. Since I have no experience with the tractor I have a few questions.

1. will the tractor move with the Torque amplifier out? Since I haven't started the tractor or tried to move it I don't know if it on the low,high side or both. If its out on only the low side, can the tractor be used for doing chores like running a haybine, bale grinder, baler etc?

2. Now I understand that this tractor has two pumps to run the hydraulic system. One for the outlets, 3 pt hitch etc, and one that runs the steering, brakes and T-A. If this pump is weak, I'm guessing the steering and braking system will go out too. Is there a way to bypass it to at least get it on a trailer to get it home? ie use the back system to power the front system.

3. does the community think putting a few thousand dollars into the tractor would be worth it? I'll done the work myself, even if it needs to be split but is this tractor worth it? A quick search in my area shows a 1066 or 100+ hp tractors that vintage still over $5000 or more. Let me know what you all think.


Thanks
 
Get it ASAP. Have it hauled if needed, winched on a flat bed. It could be having a typical issue with a suction side vacuum leak
that lets air get into the hydraulic system. Get a reciept for the tractor, notarized and photoed. Put an extra 5 gallons of
Hytran (real hytran) fluid in it above full. This covers a known Oring potential leak, and hurts nothing. If the ta rear sprag
(one way) clutch is bad, it will drive in direct (lever forward) if the MCV hydraulics are out, or low on fluid (as above) it will
move forward but not have direct drive, only TA reduction, and no ability to prevent free wheeling down hills.
With the brakes and steering wacky, it has to be fixed before using it (unless the five gallons works!). Jim
 
Describe the wacky. Do they not work or work sometimes? Of course you would take a free 100 horse tractor in a basket. I don't think it is to serious except the TA will need a double split if you want it fixed. We delete them anytime we need to get in that far if they don't work.
 
I'm really not sure exactly what the issue is with the steering or brakes. The story is this neighbor bought this tractor at an auction and took it over to a friends place where it sits. The friend is telling me that when they started it the steering and brake weren't working very good and sometimes not at all. Since it is buried in a snow bank right now I haven't tried it at all.

So the first thing to try would be the extra oil in the system, then pressure test and check all the adjustments in the MVC system, correct? If the pump is bad does it effect the TA too? If worse case, the TA is bad, does a guy delete it or replace it?

I want this tractor as a second tractor for cutting and bailing hay. I use a soft core baler, and New Holland haybine.


Thanks guys
 
Sounds like a deal for sure if you have the time/space/money! You won't really need the T/A for hay production at all unless you have pretty steep hills and don't want to have to shift for to go up them. I make hay on B and C slopes and never touch my TA. I'd leave that for last and then if you need to replace it do so.
 
Answer on the BYPASSING the ft system NO two different systems not inter connected . Now if you don't want it i'll be glad to take it . Not busy at the moment .
 
Don't look a free tractor in the radiator.

They hardly ever turn out to be really "free" but still, a lot less than a new one.

If you know where you can buy running driving field ready 1066's for $5000, let me know. I will buy as many as I can get my hands on, drag them back here to NY, and double my money.
 
I would start with the filter first. It probably needs changed anyway. Might even solve all the problems, though I doubt it. Then try the extra oil in it. If these don't solve your problem. You will need to dig deeper in to it.
Yes the pump could cause all of the problems TA,steering,brakes,and trans lubrication.
 
Thanks everyone so far for your thoughts. I'm going to find a winch truck and trailer to haul it home after I dig it out of the snow bank, lol. I'll get it here and get the fuel system cleaned out then the motor running again and hopefully I wont have to dive into the transmission.

Plan of attack will be, filters, extra oil, pressure testing, pump then I'll see. I have got the manuals and you guys.
 
I would advise you take the tractor -as was mentioned with receipt. Infact, pay the guy something to show that money changed hands for the tractor.

I?ve looked at a several IH tractors since last fall for a potential purchase and many needed attention like the one you?re looking at. Problem was, the
asking price was for something that IMHO should have been in better shape. After you pay their price and dump a pile of cash on repairs, you truely
could have bought a nicer/field ready tractor. Free makes the repairs more affordable.

Good luck,
Bill
 
So I got it home yesterday, started first turn of the motor, but
took a little bit for the steering to start working. Guessing it
needed to prime the pump. Seemed to drive ok for the short
trip to the trailer. Loaded hoses are done but that?s no big
deal. Needs going through but so far I?m very happy. I?ll need
the expertise of this forum I?m guessing with it.


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Hi All,

So I now understand wacky steering, braking and transmission. I started the tractor and drove it up and down the driveway and everything seemed ok, so I when into the pasture. The first five minutes was ok but then the steering started to get jerky, brakes and clutch pedal seem to start pulsing. Feels like the pump started sucking air as the tranny fluid got warmer. I returned to the house and as I started to climb the small hill the tractor stopped moving all together. I had to idle the tractor up the small slope.

Fluid is over filled by a good few gallons ( well above the full mark). Not sure of what type of fluid that is in it. My guess Universal Tractor Fluid. Is there a certain type or weight?

Should I get a few pressure gauges and pressure test it, or just take the MCV pump out?

That's the first issue, the second one is I believe there might be a wheel bearing out. Seem to have a thump once a revolution on the right side. Tire seems to almost seem to jam up then release with that thump. Going to jack it up once I get a chance and see if it wiggles.

Thoughts?
 

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