Help with fuel line

WolfyofPort

New User
I have my great grandfathers super w6. I am
having trouble finding a fuel line for it
because it is pre SN 3951. Can any one lend
some advice apart from making one myself?
 

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You most likely wont find it, unless you get a used one that's all messed up anyways. Youd be money ahead just to make it, but one from a Super M may work.
 
be a 1953 model, but quite sure the farmall and mccormicks take a different line. , due to the tank outlet in a different position. nothing to make it. make sure you have the circle bend in it to prevent cracking.
 
"...apart from making one myself"

Sorry, no. Nobody makes a fuel line for that tractor anymore. Just not enough demand for that specific model.

I've used "pre-made" fuel lines in the past, and my experience is that they need as much bending and trimming as a piece of straight 5/16" brake line.

Why so against making one yourself? It's not difficult.
 

Why would a Super W6 be different from a Super M? Same carburetor, same sediment bowl, aren't the fuel tanks also the same?
 
I'd caution you against a rubber fuel line. I used to would have said I agree, use rubber, but the pack-rats or whatever I have, have chewed mine all over the place, and filled the barn with gasoline. Pretty dangerous. I'd recommend going on line, you can buy a roll of 5/16 steel brake line, from ebay, you can cut the stuff with a sharp roller-plumbing cutter, and get fittings almost any NAPA store. Should be easy.
 
different outlet location , I was surprises to... put a W4 tank on my farmall H and wth the gas line was too short. figured the W6 and M had the same deal going on. little things like that to screw you around.
 
I agree with making one as it is very simple with some steel brake line and the compression fittings compatible with the brake line and f compatible with the fuel tank outlet and carburetor inlet. When I restored my Farmall 240 I got a couple straight sections of the correct size brake line, correct brass fittings and a simple hand tube bender to retain full inside diameter of the tube through the bends for proper fuel flow. I made a sample pattern with some solid copper wire and bent the steel tube to the pattern with the hand bender leaving a little excess on each end to be trimmed to length with a tube cutter when fitting the tube between the tank and carb. Got it perfect with the first attempt. I don't believe the tube bender I used cost more than $15 and have used it for other projects since. Rubber hose is not a safe alternative as noted in other responses as a neighbor's tractor burnt to the rims when a mouse nest caught fire under the hood next to a rubber fuel line from the heat of the exhaust manifold while making hay.
 
(quoted from post at 13:44:25 03/12/19) Only reason is I dont have the tools for it
but I'm going to see about getting them.

Reluctance to buy tools? Someone's going to be calling for your "man card." Just kidding around with ya...

Really, all you need is a hacksaw and a piece of sandpaper or a file to dress up the ends. Fancy tubing cutters and benders make the job easier but are not absolutely necessary. You can make the bends by hand if you're careful, or use an old v-belt pulley as a bending guide. Heck anything round, an old soup can even...
 
About a 2-inch or 3 inch diameter 360-degree full loop, so it can vibrate easily, and contract back and forth, without putting strain on the end fittings. Just look on ebay for farmall h gas line, you;ll see a picture.
 
Ok another dumb question. Flare the end or use a compression fitting. I say dumb because I used to know the answer but cant remember. I managed a napa 2 years ago and now work strictly in auto paint and can tell my mind is transitioning knowledge.
 
Excellent question. I used compression ferrule fittings, with 5/16 OD tubing, because that's what came with the tubing I bought for my H Farmall, from this site. I suppose it is the right stuff. I think it would be difficult to flare 5/16 OD tubing.
 
(quoted from post at 07:24:51 03/13/19) Ok another dumb question. Flare the end or use a compression fitting. I say dumb because I used to know the answer but cant remember. I managed a napa 2 years ago and now work strictly in auto paint and can tell my mind is transitioning knowledge.

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This is the special fuel line nut with attached compression sleeve IH typically used, current part # 222-503.

If this is what your tractor originally had, the sediment bowl and the carb inlet fitting are made to accept this special nut.

LOTS of sources, from the FIAT dealer to the 'net.
 
I have always just had a short piece of steel line on each end and then a piece of rubber fuel line. You should always shut off the valve at the sediment bowl anyhow, so if something damages the fuel line it won't all leak on the floor. I have never had a problem doing it this way. In the case of a fire a steel line would be better, but if you keep the tractor clean there isn't much to burn.
 
I got a bender, fuel line should be here tomorrow, and sediment bowl is ordered says 7 to 10 days. I have the fitting to go into the carb off the old line I'll need one to go into the bowl. What's on it now is rubber hose to an in line filter then rubber hose to a section of steel into the carb.
 
(quoted from post at 04:02:17 03/14/19) I got a bender, fuel line should be here tomorrow, and sediment bowl is ordered says 7 to 10 days. I have the fitting to go into the carb off the old line I'll need one to go into the bowl. What's on it now is rubber hose to an in line filter then rubber hose to a section of steel into the carb.

If the fuel inlet filter is in place in the carburetor, and the sediment bowl is correct, you do not want or need that inline filter.
 

If your fuel tank is nasty with rust and crud inside (or even if it isn't) I recommend a fuel tank screen that goes in the top of the sediment bowl. YT sells them and its the best money I've spent on my 450. It causes the fuel intake to be about 2 inches above the bottom of the tank, avoiding all the rust, crud, other debris.
 

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