Farmall 140 clutch

Could someone present a diagram on the clutch settings for my 1960 140. I seem to have books and diagrams for about every other tractor I own but not my 140. Looking for the clutch finger adjustment. Any help?
Thanks,
Curt
 
Some ideas: the little adjusters on a new clutch are Pre adjusted from the builder. They could not afford to ship clutches that fail for that reason. If a used clutch has major differences between finger heights, the pivot pins and finger pivot holes are worn and will continue to do so. Minor adjustments can be made. The finger height should be made with a depth gauge in a fixture. That said in the tractor, making them very close to the same height (less than .005" difference will do. The clearance from the fingers to the throwout bearing when your foot is off of the pedal, is usually about an eithth of an inch to 3/16. Jim
 
If you don't mind me/us asking, what is the specific reason you feel the need to adjust the pressure plate fingers?

As Janicholson says they should come pre-adjusted from the clutch shop. As he also says, old pressure plates that get out of whack are usually not long for this world.
 
I installed this clutch new a few years ago and paid no attention to the position of the fingers. When I found myself ramming the hanger into the fingers to disengage the clutch, I realized the error of my ways and attempted making the adjustment through the hand hole. It isn't right. I need the dimensions as would be dictated in an IT manual and I don't have such a thing for the 140. Should be a specific distance between the fingers and the flywheel clutch surface
 
If the fingers are being hit by the throwout bearing carrier ("hanger") the issue will probably not be fixed with adjustment. If the fingers need to move a great distance to release the clutch, the disk may be warped, or the hub bent causing the disk to drag until the pressure plate is wide open. Other issues may include splines on the clutch shaft can wear causing the disk to stay in contact with the flywheel. what are the symptoms you are having when operating the tractor? Jim
 
Those specifications would be for the pressure plate on some kind of fixture on the bench I think. I've read how it's done but don't remember the details. Like everybody said those fingers are set by the factory, rebuilder, whatever. If you want to try through the hole on the bottom tape two or three hacksaw blades together for a make shift feeler gauge to use between the fingers and throw out brg.
 
One should never assume the fingers are set right from the builder. Ive come across more than one that wasnt, and one was a major supplier in the day, the name escapes me at the moment.
 
Me, too. I have the measurement as given in the IT manual for an A but don't have a similar IT book for a 140. I suspect that they are the same but I'd like to know. I only want to do this once.
Curt
 
(quoted from post at 18:31:25 03/05/19) Me, too. I have the measurement as given in the IT manual for an A but don't have a similar IT book for a 140. I suspect that they are the same but I'd like to know. I only want to do this once.
Curt

Curt, it has been several months since you posted this but I am having the problem of having zero clutch pedal free play on a 140. Installed rebuilt parts from a local shop and assumed the fingers were set right. I'm going to measure them from the face of the pressure plate this evening to check. I was told a Super A setting is 2 3/8 inch, which a 140 SHOULD be the same. I'm not sure what my problem is as nothing should have changed when swapping the parts out. I tried adjusting the clutch rod under the dash panel and it didn't help a bit.
 
(quoted from post at 15:42:16 09/24/19)

Curt, it has been several months since you posted this but I am having the problem of having zero clutch pedal free play on a 140. Installed rebuilt parts from a local shop and assumed the fingers were set right. I'm going to measure them from the face of the pressure plate this evening to check. I was told a Super A setting is 2 3/8 inch, which a 140 SHOULD be the same. I'm not sure what my problem is as nothing should have changed when swapping the parts out. I tried adjusting the clutch rod under the dash panel and it didn't help a bit.
Look at my post in this thread. I posted a couple of pages from my 140 chassis blue book.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1407055
 

Thank you. I used it as a guide but with what I am measuring/checking, it didn't include that info. I've got to make sure I have proper clearances and everything is "right" before joining the two halves of the tractor back together. I've had to split it 3 times because of this problem and I am not splitting again. Any suggestions?
 

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