CONNECTING ROD BOLTS

s10den

New User
I am currently rebuilding a C123 engine out of a 58 IH 240 Utility. i have spent a large part of the day trying to locate connecting rod bolts. Seems no one sells them, kinda hard to believe this as there is prob. thousands of those little motors out there yet. Does anyone know if the rod bolts from another 4 cyl will interchange with these or what other models used this motor?
Thanks in Advance
Denny Sweet
 
I used some ARP rod bolts for Dad's Super A. I don't remember what they were originally for but I had to grind part of the bolt
head. I was able to grind enough for clearance without getting into the underhead radius. I searched through their offerings based
on the bolt's dimensions.

Unlike automotive rod bolts, these were basically a very light press fit.

I didn't want to re-use the originals as I found under close inspection that they had corrosion pits. That equals to a broken bolt
somewhere down the line.
 
I have used Fastenal for head bolts for a cub.
It took a little hunting, but found what I needed.

ARP may be the better choice for "Made in USA".
Will not be cheap, but cheaper than a broken rod bolt & all the damage it can cause.
 
The reason why is that they were special made for that I H engine . we are not working on a Chebby , your working on and engine that will out last you . In all my years working on I H engines i have never had a rod bolt failure with the ORG rod bolts , i have seen broken rods , busted pistons sucked sleeves , dropped valves , broken cranks . But never a rod bolt failure . This is and engine that is meant to last and is way over engineered , now unless you plan on twisten it's tail to ten grand don't worry about ROD bolts . same as the head bolts or studs unless they are pitted or stretched , now on that one yes i have replaced with OEM ORg . equipment . even on the barn yard builds going way past Mfg. spec.'s
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:43 02/20/19) Why not reuse the old ones? We havenot ever bought new rod or main bolts never had a problem with them either.

I would have however the nuts stripped the threads off 3 bolts.If all else fails I will buy ARP Bolts and reconfigure the head. Besides ARP bolts are Chrome Moly,heat treated and the threads are rolled which equals 220,000 psi don't think that was an option back in 1958.
 

I would even buy some Original if they are available and I have the part numbers but there are none around, some list them but are unavailable or out of stock. YT has the nuts but no bolts.
 
(quoted from post at 19:56:42 02/21/19) 480.00 plus shipping really? How many sets have you bought?

Dunno if you directed your post at me or not, but the bottom line is that the "tractor hobby" ain't cheap and no one owes you cheap parts.

If, in fact, the CORRECT bolts are still available from the OEM. you should be thankful for that.

If you don't have the cash to "play the game" why not move on and sell the tractor "as is" to someone who will better appreciate it?

Oh, yeah, have you looked into having the rods "checked" and reworked as needed at a machine shop set up to do such work?

That (necessary for a successful O.H.) detail will likely cost you several hundred dollars, as well.

That would be the time to have the pros install the new rod bolts, as well, before "checking" the rods.
 
The numbers you are looking for are 363466R1 or 363456R3 Nut is 232-4636. I have no idea what price is. These numbers came off the CaseIH website. For a C-123 engine. You have to look up engine parts by the engine model number not by the tractor model in their books. These are the new numbers the old ones superseded to.
 

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