Rim Clamps nut torque

AL Moyer

Member
Does anyone torque the rim clamp nuts ?, if so, what should the torque be ? Also, should there be the split lock washers under the nuts ?, there's none now. Could they have been there originally ? This is on a 53 Super H. Thanks for any & all responses, Alan
 
No "torque". Just tight. use an impact and rattle them tight,or use a 1/2" breaker bar. Or if you think you just have to "torque" them,Use standard torque values link at the left side of this page.
 
torqueing them is a very good idea , that way you know all clamps are tightened equally in the cross pattern. get your bolt size and thread and look it up. cause if your tightening with a 3/4 impact you will have an over torqued issue as these can torque to 500-600 lbs easy. don't remember if its 5/8 bolts or 3/4 bolts don't think they had lockwashers from factory. but don't hurt to use them.
 
Look up a 5/8 coarse thread grade 5 bolt and nut and use that torque. Can find the bolt charts online. No lock washers were used, have used flat machine washers between nut and clamp if bolt is long enough for a full nut. Threads on the bolts between clap and wheel can be pitted and rusty and bolt inside wheel can sometimes be weather worn and undersize. In my area I sometimes find bolts with 1/3 of diameter gone between the two places mentioned.
 
Farmers didt have torque wrenches just make sure the threads are clean and use some oil on the threads. A 1/2in
breaker bar will work. Then drive tractor around and tighten again i would use a lock washer. Check again after
using a few times to make sure. Its worked for me.
 
SH parts book one wheel parts. Only washers used were for the axle clamp bolts. Lock and machine washers.

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I had to change rim around because the knobs on bevel were damaged and use other bevel ( double bevel
rim).Tire shop did it for me and told me that I would have to tighten some more after use. I pull the
tractor and tightened after coming home from pulls We had to do this 4 times before they were totally
tight. I use a 3/4" breaker bar with an 8 FT. cheater bar on it.
 
For get the 1/2 inch breaker bar and go with a 3/4 drive and a four foot piece of pipe for a normal person and all ya can put on it . Like i said a NORMAL person not half animal like a old friend of mine , he broke my 3/4 ratchet with no cheater just usen his two hands , made a starter wrench out of my 1 and 5/16th box wrench and could lift a 55 gallon barrel full from the ground up into the bed of a 73 Ford F250 4x4 on big tires with ease . Saw him carry four 150 pound wheel weights from the pick up one night at the tractor pull over a 100 yds. away like he was carrying two lunch boxes . You did not give Ronny a cheater bar .
 
Even I at 70 years old can twist one of those 5/8 bolts off with a 4 foot cheater if I put out. Sure it's not the axle clamp bolts you refer to.
 
You won't twist them off if you use grade 8. I never use a ratchet to break loose or do final tightening of bolts( breaker bar only).
 

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