140 engine in a Super A?

arobint

New User
Seized my super A motor last summer. Vegetable farmer here, we use the super A and a 140 for weeding the veggies. I found a used engine on Kijiji for $950, from a 140. Will it fit on the Super A without issues? Or at all?

Otherwise, how big a job is it to repair the motor? It's something we could attempt ourselves, my tractor guy is taking a small engine course at the moment, but we'd be first-timers for sure. How much of the engine would we have to replace?

Thanks for any info you have!
 
Hard to say what the size of the job is until you take it apart. Was the tractor running when it happened? Chances are if you take the motor apart you would need to have the crank ground and new bearings to
fit. Could be other work needed depending on what exactly happened. You could take it to an engine shop to get it done if you don't feel comfortable doing it. I'm guessing a complete overhaul at an engine shop
would be about $2500 - $3000 but others probably know better. That would get you essentially a new engine. A 140 engine would certainly juice up the old machine. Good news is that the old farmall engines don't
come any easier to work on. If you swap the engines you can probably find someone to buy the Super A engine and over haul it.
 
The 140 engine is a C-153, and will bolt right up to your A. Only question is the hydraulics. I have put that engine in an A, but not Super. It puts out nearly 40 HP, rated 2200 RPM. It will make your A into a boss tractor. But do remember, the parts for the 140 engine are losts harder to come by and lots more epensive too. The last 123 engine that I had done professionally cost me $2800 this past year, complete with new pistons, new valves and seats, everything turned to fit right.
 
We had all the oil changed in our tractors at the same time and they put 15-40 in all of them, including the farm all. Would that explain the seizure?
 
The super a had the same hydraulics setup as our 140 does . As in, rear lift, and underbelly lift. Same levers, in the same place. What would your concern with the hydraulics be? Thanks so much for the help!!!
 
The motor was running when it stopped working. Or at least in the middle of a job. Like I said above it had had 15-40 engine oil put in it a week or so before it happened, and I?m afraid that might have done it in. Does that make it any more or less reasonable to fix? Sounds like the 140 engine for $950 might be the way to go. That?s Canadian dollars by the way, so $700 USD.
 
15-40 oil is not an issue. recommended by a strong % of YT contributors (including Me) something else caused the failure. Jim
 
Just going to throw some ideas at you. Do you know what part of the engine caused it to stop. You could try to turn the engine over by hand. Maybe you can now that it isn't hot anymore. If it is seized, remove the front cover. A key may have sheared and is jamming the cam shaft. Or loosen the rocker arms and see it the valve train is holding it from turning. If the block, pistons, and crank are not the problem, the repair may not be very expensive at all.
 
The original engine in a 140 is not a C-153 but a C-123 so only 17 drawbar and 21 pto hp and 1400 rpms. The engine will bolt right up to your bellhousing but you will have to change a few things up front to use your original radiator. i.e 140 has a different water pump setup than the Super A. If you do not have a water pump on your Super A your going to need one on the 140 engine because of the design change for the head and head gasket requires the use of a water pump. On a thermosyphon system with no water pump the head gasket has bigger water holes to allow
water circulation. If you use the head gasket setup for a water pump engine on tractor with no pump the water can not circulate well enough to cool tractor properly
 
Its fixable but probably not at a price comparable to the 140 motor. Hard to argue the price of the 140 motor vs fixing the super A motor plus what you end up with with the 140 motor in the tractor.
 
Concur with Rex.
Should you decide to swap your engine for the 140 engine, clean (or have it cleaned) your radiator while having it off. The Super A-1, the 130 and the 140 (with C-123 engines) had a taller radiator than the A and Super A for more cooling capacity; needed for the larger engine displacement.
 
A 140 engine is NOT a C-153. That engine was only used in the 504.

It's a C-123, and it will work fine with the shorter Super A radiator by transplanting the upper water outlet and fan bracket from the Super A engine to the 140 engine.
 
I think most folks use 15-40 in their old Farmalls, unless your going to start it in sub-zero temperatures without preheating it should be fine.
 
I think more important than the type of oil, would be the Oil Pressure...at least the relative amount of it. I check this out quite often when using my SA for mowing. Most oils now are Service "SN" which is far far and away better than anything that the tractors were designed to run when new.

As others have said, in my opinion its worth some time to try to understand what exactly happened. Something else could have metal-fatigued and fallen into a place which stopped the rotation cold.
 
Hmm never considered that. It did stop dead without any warning, and I simply tried to start it with the starter, and then the hand crank. Nothing at all. Not a budge. When we pulled the tractor out of the field I did notice the wheels were locked if the clutch wasn?t depressed. Will try pulling the cover.
 

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