I am trying to get a rust frozen axel out of this w9 steel wheel. I heated it the best i could with a torch and have a 30 ton hydraulic bottle jack underneath it. No luck. I was thinking about removing the center hub and taking it to a shop with a 100 ton press but i would ruin the original revits holding it together. Are there similar revits or bolts looking like revits available?

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I can't tell what I'm looking at exactly, but is it hanging from the axle? Vinegar will completely dissolve rust. Any chance you can dribble vinegar down into that axle, where it is rusted to the wheel, day after day, and after a week or two it might dissolve the rust and let fall the wheel?
 
Another option would be muriatic acid with similar mode of action to vinegar. For me it works better/faster. But with the odor it must be done outdoors.
 
I have been spraying kroil oil on it over and over. I have the axel hub sandwiched between 2 large i beams with a 31/2 pipe over the axel so the jack can push the axel thru from the bottom side.
 

Keep pressure on it constantly-do as others have said . Vinegar, Kroll oil, automatic trans fluid mixed with gasoline [ be mindful of sparks ] Good chance that time , pressure, and magic fluids make it give way . Tapping or beating while under pressure may help also. Can you rig it where weight of wheel plus artificial pressure exert constant force ? Just my 2 cents .
 
Since it is going to take time I would stay away from corrosives that might damage metal and actually make it harder to get apart. I would use lubricants only with constant pressure and every chance I got I would apply heat, especially on colder days where you can get two extremes to expand and contract. I don't understand why the small press does not damage rivets but the large press does? Google search should tell you if there are rivets around that will work.
 
Be very wary of muiratic acid it will rust everything that's bare metal in your shop.....

I think I'd try one of those weed-burner torches first for a preheat, but you'll probably have to use a rosebud for the final temp....and those need big acetylene bottles to run.

How is the axle attached to the hub or wheel, is it a split-setup which is pressured/clamped back together with bolts? If its a really long area its going to take some work as there's a lot of shear-area around the circumference to resist the upward load from the bottle jack.

Any-way you could take a pic of the center or what's actually supposed to hold it together?
 
a 30 ton jack wont do much for that! plus you need heat! plus you need at least 100 ton press! when she breaks free you will hear it!
 
I believe rivets are available. They still sell them here in Australia, where we make hardly anything anymore! You might use dry ice to shrink the axle and help free it from the hub.
SadFarmall
 
Don?t pull on the spokes I?ve had to use lots of heat and drill thru. the axle and keep drilling magic oil concoction more heat a n extraordinary rigid puller and heavy sledge to break it loose the hubs will break there is a lot of surface area there to get a grip so it will take much effort to have success
 
hard to figure out from that picture what is going on. if there was a hole in the floor that the axle could be set in with a pipe size just bigger than the axle so it rests close to inner axle giving support. then press on the axle shaft to push it out. it appears as though you have the rim hanging by two spokes,... if so that is definitely a weak point and the spokes will bend.
 
I can't see whats going on either Joel. Where is the jack?
Regardless I have pressed lot of W Series axles apart. Some of them take a lot of tonnage and 30 tons won't do most of them Soak it good and try to rig it up so you can use 2 jacks possibly
The toughest ones I did was an i4. 100 tons won't do them
Put them in a 250 ton press and they went off like cannon firing
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Im not pulling on the spokes. The chain is holding one I beam to the other. The bottle jack is on the bottom that you can?t see. On top is a thick wall pipe bigger than and over the axel. I?m trying to jack the axel in the tube.
 
You might try 50/50 acetone and Synthetic ATF. Acetone is not as corrosive as muriatic acid, but I assume very flammable.

Never tried vinegar or colas, heard 'bout it though, for many tricks.

I have pressed out rusted pistons from blocks, but nothing of that PSI needed.

Video the results, I'd love to show this to my students at school.
Would be a great teaching tool for stubborn hardware :shock: :D
 
You can find any number of scientific and non-scientific tests online regarding soaking with penetrating oils and other magic potions, and the universal finding is that they do NOT penetrate significantly in any reasonable amount of time.

Any "pour on" solution to your problem here will need literally years of daily application to have any hope of making a difference. We're talking about several inches of rusted-on splined 2-3/8" axle here.

If you want it out in any reasonable timeframe without resorting to a massive press, you need heat. Not your little propane torch that runs on 1lb bottles. Not even your oxy-acetylene cutting torch. One cutting head can't keep the whole thing hot enough to matter. A rosebud tip on the torch will help, but you also need a couple of those propane weed burners pointed at it to keep it warm as you work the casting with the rosebud.

Oh, and you can MAKE rivets. All you need is some mild steel round bar, your cutting torch, a swage block to form the head (just a piece if heavy bar with the right sized hole drilled in it), and a couple of hammers. Lots of videos on forging rivets online.
 

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