I-6 rear axle bearing

Haas

Well-known Member
I have the hub and seal parts off the rear axle of my 1945 I-6 because the transmission oil was leaking. I have the new seal parts, but I would also like to replace the outer axle bearing while it it apart as it has a small amout of play. Is there a way to get the bearing out without going inside the transmission housing or removing the rear axle carrier? The parts info looks like it should come out as I don't think it is a press fit.

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Clean it really well so all race grooves and balls are visible. Inspect with a hand lense to see all sides of all balls and grooves. If no brinelling or spalling, run it. (google images of Bearing Brinelling and Spalling. If you replace it you can destroy the cage and let the balls go to one side then use a slide hammer and hook to pull the races out. get the new bearing first!!! Jim
 
I repainted 2 sw6ta both had busted inner axel bearings. I changed the rearend oil and noticed a couple metal pieces come out with the oil.i pulled the pto out and felt around and found several bearing chunks. Luckily i caught it before they got caught under the bullgear and busted the housing. Which did happen to my brothers 650.
 
I figured it would be necessary to destroy the cage so I could get access to use a puller to remove the bearing. I don?t really want to do that so I think I?m just going to put it back together. I suppose the new bearing would likely have a plastic cage. The tractor is not going to do much anyway. The leaking oil was coming out around the splines due to a failed O ring that is on the axle between the axle sleeve and the inner bearing race. The seal that runs on the axle sleeve was not leaking to amount to anything and if it did the leak would not come to the outside of the hub. I did not realize where the leak was until I took it apart. A new seal, new felt ring, new O ring and new gasket for the seal holder/bearing retainer should make it good enough.
 
It has to be a press fit on the axle, otherwise it would wear the axle out. In general on any bearing, the race that rotate has to be an interference fit. We used to grind a notch in a race like that and then take a cold chisel and crack it, or is some cases we would weld puller rods to the race. If your cage is intact and nothing is scored or galled I would leave it. You could take a feeler gauge or a dial indicator and see how much clearance there really is, I would think anything under .010 would be OK for occasional use.
 

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