remove replace H exhaust manifold

fairrunpa

Member
Anyone have tried this. The stack is broke off and I am thinking of removing and replacing the manifold but am concerned that the studs and nuts would shear off under torque.
 
Depends how rusty they are. Most I have taken off were no problem. Have occasionally twisted off a stud in the head and had to drill it out. You can heat the nuts before you start turning them should you have a torch.
 
(quoted from post at 20:42:38 01/18/19) Anyone have tried this. The stack is broke off and I am thinking of removing and replacing the manifold but am concerned that the studs and nuts would shear off under torque.

It is just basic mechanic stuff, access the situation, may need some heat, kroil, finesse, who knows what else.

Bottom line is it needs to be replaced so ya do what it takes.
 
On my SMTA I made a "tap" took a piece of pipe the right size, threaded on one end. with Hacksaw I cut across the threads in about 4 places. I screwed it in a ways, then back out, got a little farther each time. Used a big pipe wrench on it. I got threads down far enough pipe would hold, when ever I am working on it I turn pipe in a ways to make sure it is tight. Would be easier to try before replacing manifold.
 
I think you are talking about the 2 inch pipe in the manifold. If it is, to remove the pipe, use a sawzall and carefully cut the pipe mostly all the way through at one spot. Then carefully pry the cut area apart into the manifold. When the pipe is pried apart, you can easily remove the old piece of pipe. Doing this usually takes me about 5 minutes to remove the broken pipe piece. The tap mentioned is pricey and usually the cast manifold has accumulated so much carbon in from the exhaust making the manifold very hard and will break off pieces of the tap. So a $100 tap becomes a broken paper weight real quick..
 
300 Guy,
Thanks for your info. But the pipe exhaust is broken/rusted off at the Manifold exhaust port. I think haymaker has a good low cost alternate trick
 
I do it like 300 guy and hayfarmer . Shove a rag down the hole first and I use valve grinding compound on the makeshift tap from a piece of pipe and turn the pipe back and forth easy.
 
Another solution.......I bought an M in 1973. The threads were completely wallered out. I machined the top of the manifold as flat as I could by grinding and filing. I bought a 2 inch pipe fitting and sawed off one of the threads. I drilled 8 holed through the lip of the threads and laid it on top of the manifold and marked the holes. Then I drilled and tapped the holes 1/4-20, and bolted it on using a gasket. I screwed the pipe in and this fix lasted over 25 years until I had the engine overhauled and replaced the manifold. This fix cost practically nothing. Ellis
 

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