New oil, same problem.

I finally changed the transaxle oil on my gas 450. Some goober who didn't know what a manual was put 80-90 weight oil in it. Was suppose to be 15 gallons, it was about 7 gallons low. No wonder the T/A wouldn't work.


Filled it with 15 gallons of oil...was hoping for a miracle, but the T/A still doesn't work.


I don't guess trying to adjust the T/A would help any?


Guess I'll use it without the T/A, at least for a while.
 
The first TA tractor (SMTA) used 90wt oil and a supplement that kinda made it work. IH figured it out and went to a
thin oil with extreme pressure capability and hydraulic application. The issue was the sprag (one way) clutch
engagement when cold that slipped as the lever was pulled back. The thinner oil let that special clutch bite. You
must change the oil completely to Hytran or equal. Even then there is no guarantee that the TA is OK, but it at
least has a chance. Jim
 

I filled it with Hytrans equivalent, 15 gallons.

There is only two drains on the trans axle, correct? Both on the bottom and close to each other? It drained about 2 hours and less then two 5 gallon buckets came out, was gray and thick like 90 weight.

Maybe over time the T/A will get better... im not holding my breath
 
It could start working. The TA in my 350U is original. and is used (in and Out) frequently. Using a TA is the
best way to keep it operating. Best of luck. The TA is fed lube from a catchment in the main transmission, and
could take 3 months to clean up the oil as cold as it is. Jim
 
When I first bought my 300, I changed all the fluids including the transmission. I was told to user 80-90. Then about a month later I was pulling a big branch and used the TA. It worked find and then suddenly free wheeled. Pulled the TA back and shifted gears. Used the TA again and again it free wheeled. The guy who told me to put 80 in it, said to use the tractor real hard to get the oil good and hot. Then drain it, let it drain for a day or two and then add HyTran. I did all that and it tried to work and would still free wheel some. I ended up replacing the TA since the sprag clutch was worn and when the thick oil was added, it prevented the rollers from ramping up correctly and quick enough causing then to wear out a lot faster. Moral of the story, always use HyTran in a TA unit.
 

If it dries out here I'll start turning dirt with her soon... that should warm things up. Maybe the TA will come back to life.
 
I bought a 400 in February 2017. The T/A didn't work then. I changed out the rear end oil shortly after I got it. The T/A never really improved, even after adjusting the clutch pedal and linkages as per the owners manual and many hours of summertime operation. I don't really need a T/A, so no big deal. Fast forward to just a few weeks ago. Nice day for December in Iowa so I took the 400 out for a ride on the hilly gravel roads near me. On my way back home, I down shifted to fourth gear and started up a long, steep hill. Just for fun, I pulled back the T/A, nice and quick as many on this site have recommended, and by golly she went right up the hill! It even fought the brakes when I put them on! So, up the hill I go in low side fourth. I get to the top of the hill on flat ground, put it in first and pop the clutch. Away I go in low side of first, it fights the brakes when applied too. I stop, put it in second and try the brake test and it starts to free wheel. Crap! I'm planning on a T/A rebuild someday but I'm in no hurry, for me it will be just something fun to do with my friends and a few hundred bucks!
 
(quoted from post at 06:06:42 01/09/19) How does the TA not work? What happens when you pull the lever back and/or let it ahead? Did it ever work? Is this tractor new to you?

I bought her about 2 years ago, it had a stuck valve and lots of problems. The guy i got it from bought it to mow the pasture, thought the TA handle was a parking brake, never used it. The original owner used it on a cotton farm.

The TA never worked right for me, i thought it was working but when i pulled a disk i learned differently.

Last weekend after changed transaxle Fluid i tried all 5 gears, and worked the TA handle back and forth. When i pull the TA handle back she just slowly comes to a halt. Push the handle forward and off we go.
 
The original manual for a 300 will tell you to use 80-90. It was later that they figured out the TA doesn't like that heavy of oil when the temps are cooler and the oil is thicker.

I had the 300 manual that I was using on my 350. After buying it I changed the rear end oil and - about 4 gallons of water and 7-8 gallons of what looked like 80W that was as black as pitch. I refilled the rear end with 80-90 and used it about 17 years that way - I seldom use the TA and never used it in the winter (really don't use the tractor much in the winter either. The TA worked fine - the 2-3 times a year I pulled the handle. I finally broke down and replaced the oil with a Hytran equivalent. TA still works fine but now I have knock deep down in the transmission when the PTO is running.


I am seriously looking at putting 80-90 back in because of the PTO knock.
 
I don't think there was an additive for the 80-90 oil. The only additive I remember was for 20w(?) to "turn" it into what was eventually called Hytran. I found a gallon can of that at a farm sale - 55 year old square metal can that I bought for a $1 being half full. I later sold it to a collector.
 
Only use Hy-Tran oil; This was IH directive after the TA's were failing due to the 80-90 not lubricating properly.
Do yourself a favor and change what is in your tractor, follow the adjustment procedure carefully, and all should be well IF the TA is not worn from previous use.
 

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