706 Questions

Happy New Year

I have a few questions about my 706 gas tractor?

1.) What is the proper way to time the tractor? Do I set the timing at a full throttle or at a set RPM?

2.) I have read on this forum in the past that you can add (5) extra gallons of hydraulic fluid to possibly correct a no steering issue at start up. I added the (5) gallons, but I still do not have steering at start up. it takes about a minute to have steering? Is there something else I should be checking to help with the issue?

3.) When I run the tractor sometimes it will just shut off and I have no power at the key switch. A lot of times I wait a little and it will then have lights on the dash and will start right back up. This past week the power did not come back, so I started to check wiring. I pulled the right side gauge panel lose and was checking to see if mice had eaten some wires. I did not see anything, but then I had power again. So I am assuming that I have a loose connection in the original wiring? Is there a place to get a new wiring harness? Also could my resistor block be contributing to this issue? Also the fuse by the key is for what features?



Thanks
 
I will take a shot at question 3. Not 100 percent sure on this but I believe IH tractors of that era have a fusible link feeding all the power from the battery, well actually the starter. Disconnect your battery and then take off the positive cable at the starter. There will be one or two smaller wires that go on with it. Give those wires a good tug by the eyelets like your trying to pull them out of the harness. If one of these is the fusible link and is near failing it will pull apart. If it does you have found your problem. If this is your problem you should be able to pick up a universal replacement fusible link at most auto parts stores. If this is not the problem clean up all the connections and continue to search elsewhere. As rust red stated tractor vet will soon answer, if so have your..grain of salt...ready. Don?t get me wrong he has a lot of knowledge on these IHs but....
 
Red wire to the key switch is the hot WIRE FROM KEY SWITCH TO RESISTOR IS THE BLACE WIRE WHITE WIRE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RESISTOR IS THE HOT SHOT WIRE AS I CALL IT RUNNING FROM THE s TERMINAL ON THE STARTER AND IS ONLY LIVE WHEN CRANKING Soorry about the cap lock Any way the wire to the key switch is HOT , no fuseable link no fuses there to worry about ,.the fuse is only for head lites The main power to the dash comes from the batter side of the voltagen reg for the Generator tractors If it is a later 706 gass tractors they get there power to the red wire off the hot post of the strarter and once again NO fuesable link or fuse she is HOT all the time . Then like the early 06's the Black wire off the key switch is the one that heads for the resistor along with other components Fuse onc e again only takes care of the lights . Now things i would check is the plug ins at the key switch on both sides for corrosion and being bright and shinny along with snug fit The ends used are a Delco 56 Series female Check the main connectors up under the dash for the same thing Next i would check the coil for being Really hot to the touch when it quites . But my real thinking on this is just a bad connection . Now as for timing the engine i set them at RATED RPM here again ya must know what engine you have a C263 seets at 23 degrees full advance at BTDC and one must make sure the fly weights and springs are working . The C291 sets at 18 degrees BTDC . As to your no steering , Lest start with changing the hyd. filter and also do the Gskt . While your in there check the tin cover behind the filter and make sure that the square o/ring is on that cover on the back side , If the oil is milky then you have WATER in it and you will need to change it and do filter chaqnges till you get all the water out and have CLEAN oil. In the cold weather that filter will trap the ice cristles and plug then the baypass screen will get covered over . Now is you MCV pump good ???? don;t know i am not there to run a flow rate on it or check pressures . When you change the filter you may find pieces and parts in there not uncommon . myself i like placing a cow magnet in that area as it finds lots of stuff . Look over the filter cover and make sure it is FLAT around the bolt holes if not fix it with a hammer and a flat piece of steel for a back up , this way you get a better seal on the gskt . Just because it is not showing any fluid leak that is no grantee it ain't sucking air . Change the gskt with each filter change and SNUG the cover bolts about 20 25 ft. lbs is enough . Have other questions just ask i know 706's
 
Thank You Tractor Vet
Let me start with these comments: I have the 263 engine, my tractor was built in 1964. What do you mean by Rated RPM? I plumbed a pressure gauge in line on the left side of the tractor by the clutch pedal where there is a pressure sensor. I have about 20 lbs of pressure with the clutch pedal released. The pressure goes to 0 when I push the clutch in. How do you run a flow check? I have replaced the hydraulic filter and oil with new. The cover is flat, I had flatted the holes around the bolt holes when I had the cover off. My wires are all the same color from spray paint, all I can do is track the wires down by your description. The porcelain resistor by the coil appears to be brittle from age/temperature. The tractor is not stored at my house, so I will check out more on the wiring in the next couple of weeks depending on weather here. I had replaced the key switch last summer with a new switch. Do you have a place you recommend for a wiring harness? The old wiring is over (50) years old so I would just replace it, if not too pricey.
Thank You for your advise. I like a person to just tell me straight.
 
Yep the 20 is good and the drop- to 0 when the clutch is depressed is also good as that dumps pressure off the clutchs in the T/A so you are not holding against the sprag and makes for easier shifting Ya do a proper flow test with a flow rator it is a special piece of equipment or tool if you like that will check free flow of a hyd. system and the loaded flow along with the pressure , it also will test the pressure relief valve and temp. of the oil while working the system . It have valving built in to load the system . . A good one is not cheap . I was lucky enough to get one when i bought almost all the shop tools of a closed up I H dealership . The one i have will work on OPEN center systems only as i do not have the other adapter to do the closed center systems on the newer tractors . Rated RPM is HIGH ideal . or wide open throttle as long as someone did not crank the RPM up above factory setting . The resistor by the coil is there to chop the 12 volts coming from the system down to 6-8 volts being fed to the coil , the wite wire that is tied into the wire going direct to the coil will feed a hot 12 volt to the points when you press the starter button for a hot shot for faster starting and once you let off the starter button all feed goes thru the resistor to be cut down for extened life of the points and coil as all I H coils are 6 volt coils . As for wiring harnesses That is up to you , if i need a new harness i build them myself for the tractor i am working on and use the correct wire ga. and color and ends and when done it is a plug and play deal. . There are several different harnesses for 706's yours will need one for the early models , now when yor tractor was built it came from the factory with a generator , now maybe at one time someone may have barn yard engineered and alt to it and done some hacking and wacking to make it work , here i don't know as i can not look . With the amount of them that i have ought and sold over the years i have seen a lot of barn yard engineering and some of the finer handy work on the wiring systems . I am just as guilty on this as i make changes for the better i think , one of my pet peeves is the fuse for the lights , it's fine if you have two head lights and one rear tail/ work lite plus the dash , BUT when you have the flat tops now with four head lite and a work /tail plus dash and working well into the evening hours it will blow the fuse and there is nothing like being out in the middle of nowhere at 2 in the morning plowing and blow a fuse . And it is so dark you can't see your hand inft. of your nose and you are several miles from your pick up . When they added the extra light they really did not upgrade the system and just forced that 20 amp fuse to do more along with the light switch . Yea you can fit a 30 amp fuse in there but thats a bit much for the 14 and 16 gauge wires and the switch . What i have taken to do is i split the system do away with the one fuse and use two 20 amp breakers and split the lights along with usen C V relays and use the light switch as a trigger only taking the load off it making them last far longer and nomore instant DARk . I pull power off the starter main post to the breakers with a 12 ga wire then i pull off of them with a 14 ga. one breaker feeds the light switch with a Delco 56 end that plug on the hot post just like factory then useing the work lite terminal off the light switch to the one C V relay trigger terminal and just plug the work light wire on the C V out if you run electric controls for implements then i will add in what ever there max load is and use a breaker to that max load along with a CV relay rated for that . I mount them on the left side of the steering support tucked up under the side dash/ fuel tank sheet metal. If i change a gen system over to and alt. i do a rewire on the main hot and go heavier i use and 8 ga. from the alt to the hot post on the starter. Last harness i made up was for my 806 when i had to install a new clutch . The main harness across the engine was toast . Took about and hour or so to make up as i carry everything i need on my truck.
 

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