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F20 valve sticking

F

fixerupper

Well-known Member
Got the F20 running decent with the new plugs. After it ran maybe 20 minutes #1 exhaust valve stuck down. I carefully pried it back up and reset the valves let her cool down and ran it again at just above an idle. In 20 minutes the valve stuck again. It has new valves, guides, springs, seats the works. Evidently the machine shop set this valve up too tight in the guide. Will it loosen up with time or am I in for a head pulling job?
 
try squirting some thin oil right on the stem.even 50/50 oil/diesel.See if that doesn't help free it up.Maybe the felt/drip system isn't getting enough lube on a new guide.
 
I had issues with some new guides I bought a few years ago doing the same thing. They appeared to be made of some type of steel vs the original cast material, and must
have had a higher expansion rate than normal. I had to ream them out extra loose to solve the problem. I try to find good used guides whenever possible now.
 
Nothing to loose doing an ATF treatment. Mix 1 quart of ATF to 5 gal of gas. Then run it and see if it happens again if it does not that means things are a bit on the tight side and maybe bad new parts which sadly happen all to often now days.

By the way this is the 3rd try to post this since the first two got lost in cyber space due to coming up with page cannot be found errors
 
A more aggressive approach if these other fixes don?t work would be this suggestion. How about
Ajax or some other similar abrasive cleaner. My thought would require running rope in the cylinder
to remove the keepers and spring. Then mix the cleaner with some of ..olds majic juice.. ATF. Put
it on the stem put a drill on the stem an works it up and down like a hone. Then if it has seemed to
loosen it up good then flush it good with straight ATF. Put it back together and see what happens.
Hopefully most of the abrasives come out on the rope. If need be you may even step it up to
mixing in valve grinding compound with the ATF?? As normal this advice is worth what you have
paid for it.
 
Im a little leery of using that high of a concentration of gasoline right next to the exhaust manifold and exhaust. How about using WD40? It’s lubrication properties isn’t worth a hoot but it is thin. I don’t really want to pull the head but since I’m a good customer of the machine shop that did this and a friend of the head man I can probably get a free gasket set out of them. I might play around with it and try acetone/ATF first. I have nothing to lose but a little time. It starts second time up on the crank.
 
I pulled the head. Removed the keeper and spring and the valve was so snug in the guide I had to tap it down with a hammer. When it goes back together i will have peace of mind it is done right.
 
You did the right thing. My suggestion is probably more suitable for an engine being revived
without a tear down. One that has rust or carbon making the valve stick. No so much for a fresh
rebuild. I really wanted to know if it would have worked. FYI many replacement guides come with
a tight ID tolerance and are meant to be reamed to the proper clearance. For one the
manufacturer does not know how much interference is in the press fit so they allow for those
variables by having the installer fit the valves.
 
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