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Universal Joint End Coupling

R

RoeFarmall

Member
Do I need to remove the end of the universal coupling before I remove the bearing retainer "housing"? If so, how do I get it off? The bolt and washer have been removed from the coupling and shaft. I am pretty sure one of the upper transmission bearings are bad and I am preparing to pull the top cover off. I want to make sure that I will not damage anything in the process of doing this work.Incidentally, do I need to mark the orientation of that end coupling?

As usual, my thanks, in advance!

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto2214.jpg"
 
I think your coupling is backwards. The middle plate should make the shaft as long as possible, not as short. It will go together either way, but if it is wrong, the pilot journal on the end of the clutch shaft will not enter the bearing in the center of the flywheel. It makes terrible noise when assembled short as the clutch disk rubs on the inside of the flywheel. Jim
 

cvphoto2369.jpg

This is correct!! Best of luck. Jim
 
Hi Jim! Thanks for replying to my post. Can you please examine the following two photos and see if you still believe that the coupling is backwards? When I drove the tractor I did not notice any noise in the clutch area nor have I noticed any undue wear on the clutch plate. Notice the bolt that is loose inside the coupling, this is the bolt that hold the coupling to the transmission shaft. It has been worn down after years of being trapped inside the coupling.

Thanks again.


cvphoto2420.jpg


cvphoto2421.jpg


cvphoto2423.jpg


cvphoto2424.jpg
 
Interesting. If the loose flange bolt allowed the flange to ride forward the total length of the clutch shaft into the flywheel might be OK. If the bolt/washer is replaced, and the flange draws into the trans (guessing) the clutch shaft might be pulled out of the pilot bearing. Many have assembled the coupling as yours is and had dramatic noise and failure. My image came from the YT archives of the correct way. If it is not split, it will be difficult to assess the actual pilot bearing running position on the clutch shaft snout. Jim
 
Roe- from your other recent posts you appear to be working on a Super H. I am attaching a link to the CaseIH online parts diagrams. Luckily I see Jim has posted a picture of the correct assembly of the coupling. The parts diagram is not real clear. If you are have a little computer knowledge you will be able to navigate around on that site and find break downs of your entire tractor. The link connects the parts purchasing with a dealer in Kansas near where my M Farmall resides. You can reset it to go to your local dealer if you want. Best of luck!
Super H online parts break down.
 
To answer your questions to get it off get in there with a crowbar or pry bar set a wood block on the front of the transmission housing to get leverage against. Pry under the ..ears... usually come off pretty easy. No need to mark it to assemble the same either way is fine.
 
Hello again, Jim!
Tractor is currently split and I am unsure how to determine what distance the small ID splined shaft will enter the center part of the flywheel. I have moved the rear coupling away from the transmission housing about 3/8" and it appeared to be fully seated even without the bolt and washer.


Any ideas?
 
Hello again, Jim!
Tractor is currently split and I am unsure how to determine what distance the small ID splined shaft will enter the center part of the flywheel. I have moved the rear coupling away from the transmission housing about 3/8" and it appeared to be fully seated even without the bolt and washer.


Any ideas?
 
Look at the tip of the clutch shaft. It should show a wear pattern indicating how far it is inserted into the pilot bearing in the Flywheel. If the new bolt for the input flange does not pull it is any, the real length issue is still on the line. Another way is to look at the wear pattern on the clutch shaft caused by the original clutch disk. Putting them into the flywheel by hand in open air with an Oring on the pilot shaft stub would show how far it is pushing into the bearing. Jim
 
I would undo the coupler and loosely assemble as Jim?s pictures shows. Look in the clutch side with a good light and make sure the clutch plate splines look centered as compared to the pilot bearing center hole. Maybe even do some measuring to make sure the shaft when installed is fully inserted in the pilot bearing. If everything looks good stick the shaft in the flywheel and slide it back together when you are done with the transmission repairs. After it is back together reconnect the coupling shaft back to yoke and tighten it all up. Should be good to go. I?m not familiar with the C line, more of an H and M guy. I don?t think Jim would steer you wrong.
 
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