Clutch and TA Adjustment

So yesterday I was out tinkering a bit. Fired up to 606 and went to hook up the spreader to do some work on it. Brought in up to the shed, and decided I was going to adjust the clutch and TA on the 606. Ever since I have owned it I have never been able to get the adjustment perfect. I have been able to get it close and have just lived with it, as in I might have to pull the TA handle a little to get it to come out of gear or to keep it from grinding. I know the adjustments and have read many times that those are for new machines. older machines have wear and may need to be tweaked to get results. So before I started anything I inspected all the linkage pieces. every thing looked good, some wear in pins, holes not egged out. Standing on the side of the tractor I then applied the clutch with my hand to observe all parts then released. I then pulled the TA handle to observe all parts then released. The thing that stood out from my observations was when I would apply the engine clutch, the TA clutch release shaft would move towards the front of the machine. it was not rotating but a linear movement of a 20-30 thousandths. then it would rotate. Then when pulling the TA handle it would move in a linear movement to the rear of the machine about the same distance before rotating. So I think I have found what is causing my head ache. My question is are there bushings that go in the frame for the shaft? I have looked on CASEIH parts with no seeing any for the frame or the shaft. I would have to pull the shaft and measure to see of the wear is on the shaft or the housing. Also is this able to be removed by pulling the top cover off the clutch housing and sliding it out without a split? thanks in advance Josh
 
NO there are no bushing in the housing and due to LACK of maintenance you now have ware in the housing and probably the cross shaft as well, this is something you have to live with and make adjustment accordingly . This is when the BOOK no longer applys and experience comes into play .
 

The process (as I do it): Set the clutch free play at 1 inch down from all the way up measured at the foot plate to cast contact in the pedal arm. this can be felt by hand. In an
open area with nothing to run into, use low gear, and measure the point that letting up on the pedal causes the tractor to begin to move. this is the engagement point of the master
clutch. The TA linkage is now adjusted so it begins to be released at this position of the foot pedal. further depressing the pedal releases the TA clutch fully. (usually another
3/4" or so to an inch of foot travel. This assures that the TA clutch is fully engaged when the master clutch applies power through it. It also assures that the full pedal
depression releases the TA clutch so shifting is not bound up. The lever should apply and fully release the TA clutch very near the center of its travel. Doing this compensates for
linkage wear and I have had no issues doing it this way. Jim
 
Thanks for the reply guys, pretty much what I thought. After digging deeper in the manual, I can remove the shaft without a split. Just have to remove the clutch cover plate and all other parts above it. It will be a project to tackle this spring. Talking with my machinest at work, he thinks depending on the wear should be able to weld the shaft back up and turn it back. The bore in the housing is to small for the portable line bore, so he was thinking that we could build it back up with Benzola epoxy and hone it back. Other option would be to tear the housing all the way down so it could be bored and bushed on the mill.
 

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