Using propane manifold on super m

My exhaust seems to be stripped out, the manifold threads look worn and I was wondering if it's worth replacing with a propane manifold while its off.

I use the tractor for hay wagons and hay rides, and some parade duties, but it also is used to do farm things. I do not pull with it, and not sure i ever intend to.

I saw somewhere that it might not be a good idea for a working tractor because it can be hard to start when cold.
 
You could but have you tried a new piece of threaded pipe? If you have enough threads left in it to tighten the pipe just snug and then braze
the pipe to manifold. Seen my dad do this for neighbors years ago and never seen one fail.
 
I would go back with a regular gas manifold.they can be fixed.I braze a pipe into it.Grind the top surface down to clean metal.You can take the original pipe,or a new pipe. Either cut new threads or grind to a taper to fit in the hole.Preheat the area well. When good and warm/hot start the brazeing process.Do this with the maniford on the tractor. let cool naturally.Done that many times.Some guys cut new threads. However,I have found the old cast is too hard to rethread and will ruin a tap.
 
A propane manifold on a cold-blooded tractor will make it even more "cold-blooded" - especially when lightly loaded and in cool, humid weather.

I'd see about fixing the existing manifold like d beatty suggests. Or replace it with a new gas manifold.

For your intended use you will be much happier!
 
I have had luck with running a tap down in and dressing up and cutting a couple more new thread , then install a new piece of pipe . But before i install the new pipe i heat the manifold up then put the pipe in and tighten it up tight . A good high speed 2 inch pipe tap and some tap magic helps .
 
And yes i have used a propane manifold on a reg. engine here in N/E Ohio on a tractor used as a chore tractor and it works out ok . We have a 450 Manifold on my one buddy's S/MTA that we built up and it is ALMOST the same deal with out the stove . And it runs vary well .
 
I appreciate all the help, I will go back and double check what is stripped. I just know if i need to remove the muffler, the whole pipe comes out and i have to fish it back down and in. I figured if it had to come off for repair maybe i'd put a propane one on for an extra horse but if it makes it harder to start when cold i may not. She fires on a half rotation now
 
as far as exhaust pipe, On my SMTA I took a short piece of 2" pipe and cut 3 or 4 times perpendicular to threads with hacksaw. threaded it into exhaust port a ways to where it got hard, backed off and then threaded in deeper and repeat. eventually got deep enough threads to hold pipe. I couldn't find anyone who had a 2" pipe tap. My exhaust pipe will loosten over a couple years but I just retighten with big pipe wrench. I was told you had to be somewhat careful cutting new threads with tap in that you could break manifold cast if you put too much pressure on it
 
Have one on my M, never noticed it runs better or worse, uses more fuel, is cold blooded, or anything. Last time I started in cold
it was last winter and had gotten don in the low teens the night before and maybe 30 when I started it. Fired up fine for it to
be "cold". I put in on because its what I had, works fine.
 
I tried to run a tap down one also, we had a 6 foot long pipe on the end of the 2 inch tap, we could just about tip the tractor over with the leverage we had,didn't cut much for thread's less then two turns !!
 
I had an LP manifold on my M and 450 and had no problems being cold blooded and run fine. We hauled manure with M in middle of winter and
tractor started good and It had the 281 kit in it with the old 6 volt system. The 450 starts faster but has a 12 volt system. I have trouble with pipe working loose.
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Best way to keep them tight is to run a tap down it and clean and dress up the threads , then with a new piece of 2 inch pipe with new threads take and heat the area of the manifold up with a torch and get it up to around 500 degrees and screw the new pipe in while it is cold and put the snag to it . She will be tight . This way when your useing it both the pipe and maifold will get warm together and stay tight
 
Have run tap and new pipe and it still worked loose but didn't do the heat. I did find that I could use a 2" conduit nut and tighten it down and lock pipe to manifold.
 
No i didn't, i hadn't even heard of the magic metal mover at that time, that's what i use now, and it does help,but still much tougher than i expected, it was a new sharp tap!
 

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