1949 FC cylinder rebuild or replace

mpbarber

Member
I took the valve cover off and I definitely have a problem with at least one of the intake valves. Sooooo, do I take it some where and have it rebuilt or just buy a rebuilt head? I live in a pretty small town in Northern Michigan so not sure how easy it would be to find a shop to do the work.
I'm in the process of R&R on the heads of my '91 Ford CV and found it easier and cheaper to just purchase rebuilt heads on the internet.
I've done a little searching and have seen the Farmall head for anywhere from $180 to well over $500.
Do I need an exact part number or will most any tractor have the same engine/head?
Any suggestions on good places to look?
 
If the valve is stuck down and the pushrod off, try this first. Use some Kroil, Liquid wrench, or PB Blaster to spray under the valve spring and lube up the valve stem
where it enters the guide. Wait a day or so, and tap the top of the valve with a hammer. (do not beat it, tapping will do it) if it moves downward a tiny bit, use a
pair of screw drivers to pry up on the top spring coils while tapping. if you are lucky and persistent, it will pop up where it belongs. Use more spray, and use the
rocker to move the valve up and down for 15 minutes. Put the pushrod back on, and adjust it and be happy. Jim
 
once the valve is stuck, i mean stuck it is best to remove the valve fron the guide and remove the rust fron in there. there is small wire brushes that fit the guides for cleaning them. then lube them goood with oil and install the valve back in. many time i have seen not removing the rust they will just stick again once running when the engine gets warmed up. plus why was it stuck? if it has water pitting then the seat must be ground. dont know what your meaning by "will most any tractor have the same head"??? got to know what you are referring to. 1949 FC,'91 ford CV, then farmall's getting confused here.
 
I remember right you can take the head to your local parts store and they can have it rebuilt for you. at least they use to do that.
 
I had good luck with Marvel Mystery oil on a Continental Flathead Y112 LP engine (forklift) which liked to stick the (inverted) valves. Part of the cause was a blown head gasket which introduced some gummy nastyness into the oil side of the engine. Part of a planned maintenance task is to remove each spark plug every once in awhile and squirt a little on the valves so it will run down.

Part of the task is "industrial investigation" or trying to determine what caused that situation in the first place...breather left off and rainwater got in or this just suddenly happened out of the blue.
 
I agree. Don't condemn the head to death just because of one sticky valve, unless you are an absolute stickler for having everything JUST SO.

If you're capable of removing the head, you're capable of doing pretty much anything necessary to get it working "good enough" again.
 
Rustred, sorry about the confusion with the CV. I mentioned that because I found I could simply buy re-manufactured heads for less money and get them faster than sending them out and thought I might do the same for the Farmall.

I got water in the intake manifold and so caused the problem with the valve. One is particularly bad but I'm sure the rest have been effected also. Once I get the CV out of the garage I'll put the Farmall in and remove the head and post some pics here.

I'm sure I have to rebuild the head so I'm just trying to figure out the easiest/best way to get it done.
 
(quoted from post at 13:54:20 10/02/18) I agree. Don't condemn the head to death just because of one sticky valve, unless you are an absolute stickler for having everything JUST SO.

If you're capable of removing the head, you're capable of doing pretty much anything necessary to get it working "good enough" again.

Because of the "water" issue I'm thinking I should take the head off to examine the other valves. For the cost of a head gasket I think it would be worth the effort. Time is really not an issue for me and my garage is heated so that makes it nice too.
 
(quoted from post at 04:59:45 10/02/18) I remember right you can take the head to your local parts store and they can have it rebuilt for you. at least they use to do that.

I found only one place here in Alpena that could do my CV heads and they couldn't even start on them for over 2 weeks and wanted almost $300 per head.

I bought them on line for about $150 each with free shipping!
 
I've continued my search for re-manufactured/used heads with not much success. Looked at the parts page here but nothing there.

Being that my tractor is an FC are the engines the same in the C and the Super C? What about the H's and the M's? Same engine there?

Any ideas on web sites that might have heads for this engine?
 
Have you tried to free up the valve as suggested before? I would do this before doing anything else. That may be all it takes. If that doesn't work, then to contact an auto machine shop about rebuilding your head - at least to see if it can be rebuilt. Another option is a head from a tractor salvage yard. Search on the internet, contact part shops like NAPA, Oreilly's, tractor dealers etc.
 
(quoted from post at 22:38:58 10/04/18)
Being that my tractor is an FC are the engines the same in the C and the Super C?
If you have a C or Super C, should be easy to find good heads from people on this forum. Not sure if the French C uses sames head or not.

Good thread found about the FC's [b:c8bca7a18b]right here[/b:c8bca7a18b].

You can post a want ad in the classifieds at this site. Should help locate a head.
 
Haven't done anything with the valve other than hit a few times with a brass hammer. No movement.

I'd actually like to replace the head with a rebuilt or good used one. I plan on a complete rebuild eventually so this would be a good start.

I'll check the links suggested in the other responses.

I've attached some pictures.

Thanks.

p.s. I've been doing a lot of research on the "FC" and have found a lot of conflicting info. Mfg'd in France, Not Mfg'd in France, F stands for Farmall.... I did see where the C, FC replaced the B, BN which explains why my IH Service Manual has "Farmall A, AV, B, BN on the cover, shows the spread front wheels, whereas mine have the 2 front wheels together and is sold for the C.

I would expect that any head from a 113 c.i. engine will work.

thanks everyone.
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if your dead set on getting another head try JP Tractor Salvage 573-783-7055 I bet-cha ole john hargis will fix you right up
 
if your dead set on getting another head try JP Tractor Salvage 573-783-7055 I bet-cha ole john hargis will fix you right up
 
if your dead set on getting another head try JP Tractor Salvage 573-783-7055 I bet-cha ole john hargis will fix you right up
 

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