IH 574 Gas - Blown Head Gasket Advice

I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:46 09/29/18) I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?

I had a similar problem on my 1944 M. I bought the tractor after it'd been sitting in a field for a couple of years. My "recovery" started with a vacuum leak from a crack on the intake manifold. When I pulled the manifold, I twisted off one of the mounting bolts. So I pulled the head to take it down to a machine shop to get the bolt out. When I pulled the head, I found rust in the number 1 cylinder. Suspecting a blown head gasket, I drained the oil, and found about a gallon of water in the pan. With that much water, I wanted to check the crankshaft to ensure that it wasn't damaged. I pulled the pistons, and found that the crankshaft rod journals are pitted. So, now I have to replace the crank.

Bottom line: You might want to wait until you know for sure what problems you need to take care of. I have a lot of money already invested in parts, and still have a ways to go to be sure I now what needs to be repaired.
 
(quoted from post at 09:21:15 09/29/18)
(quoted from post at 06:58:46 09/29/18) I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?

I had a similar problem on my 1944 M. I bought the tractor after it'd been sitting in a field for a couple of years. My "recovery" started with a vacuum leak from a crack on the intake manifold. When I pulled the manifold, I twisted off one of the mounting bolts. So I pulled the head to take it down to a machine shop to get the bolt out. When I pulled the head, I found rust in the number 1 cylinder. Suspecting a blown head gasket, I drained the oil, and found about a gallon of water in the pan. With that much water, I wanted to check the crankshaft to ensure that it wasn't damaged. I pulled the pistons, and found that the crankshaft rod journals are pitted. So, now I have to replace the crank.

Bottom line: You might want to wait until you know for sure what problems you need to take care of. I have a lot of money already invested in parts, and still have a ways to go to be sure I now what needs to be repaired.
ut how do you figure out what's wrong with it? Don't you just need to get in there and start looking?
 
Oregunian, welcome to YT! The water you found in your engine most likely came from rain water
if it sat for 2 years. Even if the muffler or exhaust was covered. More often then not the threads
where the exhaust pipe screws in the manifold are not water tight. The water runs down the
exhaust pipe past the threads and in the manifold past an open valve into a cylinder. Then sits on
the piston and seeps by the rings into the oil pan. But, if the liquid was green then yes it was probably antifreeze and it would likely have came from the sources you mentioned.
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:10 09/29/18) Oregunian, welcome to YT! The water you found in your engine most likely came from rain water
if it sat for 2 years. Even if the muffler or exhaust was covered. More often then not the threads
where the exhaust pipe screws in the manifold are not water tight. The water runs down the
exhaust pipe past the threads and in the manifold past an open valve into a cylinder. Then sits on
the piston and seeps by the rings into the oil pan. But, if the liquid was green then yes it was probably antifreeze and it would likely have came from the sources you mentioned.[/quot]

Thanks for the greeting. :) What you say sounds logical, but I'm well past that point. Head's off, pistons are out, and trying to figure out how to get the radiator off so I can pull the bolster and get the engine out.

When I talked to external link, they were concerned that the rod bearings might have been softened by sitting in water that long, so I pulled the pistons. That was when I found that the crank shaft journals are pitted. So, now I'm going to try to pull the block and replace the crank. Not sure how far I'm going to get with cold weather just around the corner.
 

That's pretty much what I'm doing now. But I'd probably have saved so.e on shipping had I waited to complete the exploration.
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:10 09/29/18) Oregunian, welcome to YT! The water you found in your engine most likely came from rain water
if it sat for 2 years. Even if the muffler or exhaust was covered. More often then not the threads
where the exhaust pipe screws in the manifold are not water tight. The water runs down the
exhaust pipe past the threads and in the manifold past an open valve into a cylinder. Then sits on
the piston and seeps by the rings into the oil pan. But, if the liquid was green then yes it was probably antifreeze and it would likely have came from the sources you mentioned.


Thanks for the greeting. Smile What you say sounds logical, but I'm well past that point. Head's off, pistons are out, and trying to figure out how to get the radiator off so I can pull the bolster and get the engine out.

When I talked to external link, they were concerned that the rod bearings might have been softened by sitting in water that long, so I pulled the pistons. That was when I found that the crank shaft journals are pitted. So, now I'm going to try to pull the block and replace the crank. Not sure how far I'm going to get with cold weather just around the corner.
 


Thanks for the greeting. :) What you say sounds logical, but I'm well past that point. Head's off, pistons are out, and trying to figure out how to get the radiator off so I can pull the bolster and get the engine out.

When I talked to external link, they were concerned that the rod bearings might have been softened by sitting in water that long, so I pulled the pistons. That was when I found that the crank shaft journals are pitted. So, now I'm going to try to pull the block and replace the crank. Not sure how far I'm going to get with cold weather just around the corner.
 


Thanks for the greeting. What you say sounds logical, but I'm well past that point. Head's off, pistons are out, and trying to figure out how to get the radiator off so I can pull the bolster and get the engine out.

When I talked to external link, they were concerned that the rod bearings might have been softened by sitting in water that long, so I pulled the pistons. That was when I found that the crank shaft journals are pitted. So, now I'm going to try to pull the block and replace the crank. Not sure how far I'm going to get with cold weather just around the corner.
 


Thanks for the greeting. What you say sounds logical, but I'm well past that point. Head's off, pistons are out, and trying to figure out how to get the radiator off so I can pull the bolster and get the engine out.

When I talked to another source, they were concerned that the rod bearings might have been softened by sitting in water that long, so I pulled the pistons. That was when I found that the crank shaft journals are pitted. So, now I'm going to try to pull the block and replace the crank. Not sure how far I'm going to get with cold weather just around the corner.
 
You might take the crank to a machine shop.
If it can be reground it would probably be
less expensive than another crank. You will
need undersized bearing shells if you
regrind.
 
Can the mods delete this thread so I can make a new one? My thread was hijacked and none of my questions were answered
 

Thanks for the suggestion, but the old bearings were already 0.020 over sized. I don't think they make a 0.030 over size. Regardless, I purchased an already reground crank. That said, I am concerned because the new crank is a different casting number than the old crank that's in the tractor. The cranks changed in 1944 (the year of my tractor) and I fear that the one I received is different. I'll mic both cranks (mains and rods) once I get the old one out of the engine.

On another note, it was not surprising that the mud guard under the radiator is missing. I did find one of the radiator spring mount studs. So, I get to play with getting that out, (I hate trying to pull cotter pins in a tight space!) then feel around for the other one. Progress. Slow, but... slow. :)
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:46 09/29/18) I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?

"whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Oregunian: To answer your questions, doing it yourself or using a friend is completely up to you. Having a friend to help has benefits, particularly if you are not familiar with working with heavy equipment or don't have the tools to work with heavy materials. The head is heavy. I used a screwdriver to break it loose, then worked it up lifting one end then the other until I cleared the head bolts.

"Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket?:

Oregunian: Again, up to you. As I said in my previous post, I would wait until I had everything apart to see exactly what is needed. You'll probably save on shipping ordering everything at one time.

"And which engine manual would we want?"

Oregunian: I&T shop manuals for your IH 574 tractor: IH-503.
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:08 09/30/18)
(quoted from post at 06:58:46 09/29/18) I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?

"whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Oregunian: To answer your questions, doing it yourself or using a friend is completely up to you. Having a friend to help has benefits, particularly if you are not familiar with working with heavy equipment or don't have the tools to work with heavy materials. The head is heavy. I used a screwdriver to break it loose, then worked it up lifting one end then the other until I cleared the head bolts.

"Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket?:

Oregunian: Again, up to you. As I said in my previous post, I would wait until I had everything apart to see exactly what is needed. You'll probably save on shipping ordering everything at one time.

"And which engine manual would we want?"

Oregunian: I&T shop manuals for your IH 574 tractor: IH-503.
don't think the shop manual will work for this. I have it and it's not very in depth in regards to the engine. I was wondering if this is what I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-International-Harvester-574-Tractor-Engine-Service-Manual/401348129927?epid=665574495&hash=item5d72367487:g:Vf0AAOSwEYdbmBNe
 
Well If you have a good selection of tools GOOD tools and a compression gauge the first place i would start is pull the plugs and run a compression test , If you have two cylinders excessively low on compression that ar side by side then you have a blowen head gskt. . Next thing i would do if i did not have low compression to speak of i would drain the coolant level down BELOW the thermostat and remover the T/Stat housing and T/Stat remove the fan belt that drives the water pump and fill to the top of the face of the T stat and start the engine and run it wide open just as fast as it could get to wide open and if water comes shooting out like OLD faithful then you have a blowen or cracked head or gskt. . Then the next course of action would be go buy atleast a I T manual for your tractor and set down and READ . Then since your not a master mechanic but want to try and do this job with the technology of today set up a video camera and film each step as you go . First remove the rocker cover , then the rocker arms and push rods . Next will be the spark plugs and just leave the wires hang after you mark each one as to what plug they came off of , next is the intake and exhaust manifold . Herte you will need to remove the fuel line and throttle linkage , then the manifold with the carb still hanging on it just one big chunk less pieces and parts to loose , place all your bolts into one bucket and try and remember where they all came from . I don't know if you have and up right exhaust pipe or and under slung as if it goes under then you will have to probably break or cut the bolts . Next is the head and anything bolted to it as all you want is the head . You will need a good long breaker bar if you do not have a GOOD impact air wrench and a six point socket , these bolts will be the tightest always remember righty tighty lefty loosey oh yea drain the water or you'll have a big mess. Now stuff a long pry bar into one of the intake or exhaust ports and give a heave Ho aand the head will come off . The head on that engine will probabkly weigh 75 or so pounds an can be man handled even by and old fart. Yep i am one of them old farts and my days of hand setting aq DT 414-466 head up on a block of a tractor have been gone now 15 years. . Now that the head is off ya start to look and see if you can see where it is blowen , if between two cylinders a blind man can see it or atleast feel it , Cracked head and or block sometimes yes but most times NO and will have to go to a machine shop and be pressure tested . and now is the time to do a valve job if the head is good or repairable and milled flat . They can get you everything you need to put it back together . the one thing your going to have to buy or borrow is a BOTTOMING tap in the size of the head bolts as you want to run a BOTTOMING tap down each hole and then clean each hole out with brake kleen and compressed air , then you want to look over each head bolt vary carefully for any pitting or bad threads or signs of stretching . Best to get a righ angle die grinder and surface prep discs to clean the mating surfaces with as t make the clean up job much easier and a bunch faster . Now you want to go find two bolts the same thread size and as long as the head bolts and cut the heads off and grind in a tapper and a screw driver slot , you use these on opposite cornors to hold the head gskt and to align the head as you set the head back on . Myself i use copper coat spray on both side of the head gskt. before i place it on the block , Then ya just start putting in the head bolts and remove your dowel pins and now you need a GOOD torque wrench , No not from harbor freight either as they are JUNk. and ya stat inthe center and follow the tourque pattern and do this in three stages and go over everything twice when you reach max torque . The hardest part is the setting of the valves . You get that far yell i'll walk ya thru .
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:04 09/30/18)
(quoted from post at 16:54:08 09/30/18)
(quoted from post at 06:58:46 09/29/18) I'm pretty sure my IH 574 blew a head gasket, lots of coolant in the tank with heavy white smoke from the exhaust. Not seeing any leaks anywhere but perhaps a cracked head.

My question is whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket? And which engine manual would we want?

"whether or not to attempt this with a friend that's got some mechanical knowledge. I've never done it so I'm not sure what the learning curve and best plan of action is.

Oregunian: To answer your questions, doing it yourself or using a friend is completely up to you. Having a friend to help has benefits, particularly if you are not familiar with working with heavy equipment or don't have the tools to work with heavy materials. The head is heavy. I used a screwdriver to break it loose, then worked it up lifting one end then the other until I cleared the head bolts.

"Do I want til we get it apart before buying the gasket?:

Oregunian: Again, up to you. As I said in my previous post, I would wait until I had everything apart to see exactly what is needed. You'll probably save on shipping ordering everything at one time.

"And which engine manual would we want?"

Oregunian: I&T shop manuals for your IH 574 tractor: IH-503.
don't think the shop manual will work for this. I have it and it's not very in depth in regards to the engine. I was wondering if this is what I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-International-Harvester-574-Tractor-Engine-Service-Manual/401348129927?epid=665574495&hash=item5d72367487:g:Vf0AAOSwEYdbmBNe

Sorry, I looked up that link, but I don't know that manual, and I'm not familiar with your tractor. I bought a similar manual from the same source. It was okay, but the IT manual actually had more detail for my M.
 

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