SMD starting problems

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
I'm a regular on other forums but first timer here. Trying to help a neighbor with his SMD. Starting on gas is OK but it dies on the diesel swithchover. I took a look at it today to see if I could help. When he pulls the compression release lever the arm on the friction housing sometimes clicks and stays in place but mostly doesn't click in. I'm not familiar with these but seemed to be something disconnected or broken inside the housing. It started doing this all at once. I advised him to take it off and see if anything is broke. Am I on the right track here??

Also this has the injector with the scavenging pump. There is a flip-up cap at the top rear of the pump with a screen in it, and level and drain plugs on the bottom. Does this get engine oil or is it lubed with fuel. He said fuel came out whenever he removed the plug.
 
Fuel should not come out. It is tilled with engine oil to level of the petcock. If no smoke is coming out of the stack when switching, no fuel is being injected. I believe it will be necessary to take it apart. or get a different pump. Pump Man who posts on here might have solutions. JIM
 
Is the pump supposed to get engine oil filled through the cap on top? About 3/4 dia. with a flip top like an oil cup but larger. I'm guessing if it should have oil then there is an internal leak in the pump.
 
It is the filler (smurf toilet lid thing) It is not connected to the engine system, so if there is fuel in there it is a problem. Jim
 
The pump holds like 1/2 pint of 30wt oil, if fuel is coming out the the seals on the scavenger pump are bad. Send pump to central fuel injection servis in esterville iowa. As far as starting there could be a issue with the butterfly valves in the manifold or the linkage that controls them and the starting valves in the head. In the cast housing above injection pump are friction discs and a spring and popet that could be grudded up. This however would not cause the non start issue. Od look on the carb side of engine for the problem. Also note all of that linkage has to be set to the specs outlined in the service manual or IT #8 manual.
 
first of all check to see if the small spring is not broken.
as that will not allow it to click in. spring is located at the mechanism on the right side of tractor. its very small about an inch or bit longer and less than 1/2 in. diameter.if broken , unit will not engage to diesel side. that pump takes engine oil through the flip up cap. if tractor is not used much just drain out the diesel and fill it to the petcock with engine oil. this works ok because the diesel just seeps in through the seals and tractor is still usable. keep the level drained each time at starting. then once its thinned out change it again. i been doing this for years. or spend money and fix the pump, your chioce.
 
Thanks for all the advice. He said fuel came out of the drain plug but I haven't seen it. The mechanism with the adjustment screws and springs is on the right side??? I have the I&T manual and going by the drawing I got the impression it's on the left under the friction disc. Is that why it says to remove the manifold? The broken spring makes sense now. Once we get it running he can keep an eye on pump to see whether it's fuel or oil.
 
If the spring you refer to is the same spring that broke on my MD a few years ago, it will not latch on the gas side. But you can hold the lever up to keep it running on gas until switching it to diesel. I was able to get the replacement spring from my CaseIH dealer, but I believe it was about $17.00. Not sure if this would be his problem since he says his tractor runs OK on the gas side. Al
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:32 09/16/18) first of all check to see if the small spring is not broken.
as that will not allow it to click in. spring is located at the mechanism on the right side of tractor. its very small about an inch or bit longer and less than 1/2 in. diameter.if broken , unit will not engage to diesel side. that pump takes engine oil through the flip up cap. if tractor is not used much just drain out the diesel and fill it to the petcock with engine oil. this works ok because the diesel just seeps in through the seals and tractor is still usable. keep the level drained each time at starting. then once its thinned out change it again. i been doing this for years. or spend money and fix the pump, your chioce.

Mine was just gummed up or Rusty or something. I sprayed penetrating oil in there and I was good to go.
 
I went back to see him today and checked the action of the starting mechanism. Looked and sounded OK, no broken springs or anything amiss. He put oil in the pump, too. He had previously put new fuel filters but doesn't seem confident he got all the air bled out. Now after another look I think it's not getting fuel. I don't have any diesels now but had one a long time ago. Sometimes getting them bled is real tedious. Thanks to all for the help.
 
The 'rack', inside the pump, that adjusts the fuel flow is probably stuck in the cutoff position. Has the tractor been sitting for some time? It can usually be freed up with some penetrating oil and patience. Getting to it requires that the top of the pump come off. I helped my dad work on a couple years ago, and at least on one of them, the pump was off the engine. Check the archives on this site, there have been several posts on this over the years.

Garry
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top