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Re: Farmall H - low power under load: Update
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Got it running last night. Went through and found top dead center and thought to myself that I had better make sure I was setting the timing on the compression stroke. So while holding a thumb over the number one plug hole I cranked the engine from the front with the crank (not the easiest thing to do) until I felt pressure, then used a flash light to watch it get to the top of the stroke. Checked the timing on the pulley, and it was lined up with the second notch (I read a ton of conflicting information on the pulley marks. On mine there are 3 marks - the first (as the engine turns) is about 1/4 inch away from another two marks which are about 1/8 in apart - I found TDC to be at the first of these two marks). I'm not sure if lining it up with the second notch is correct...let me know if that's not the correct mark to use for static timing.
Anyway, I popped off the distributor cap and found the timing 180 degrees off. I'm not sure what witchcraft was involved in getting it like that, as I was pretty careful in trying to prevent that to happen (not the first time). I then went through and cleaned up and checked the gap on the plugs and also checked the gap on the points. Fired right up!
I still was questioning fuel flow out of the tank, so I took off the sediment bowl and cleaned up a couple of flakes of paint that I found in the valve portion. Reinstalled it...not sure if it made a difference but didn't want to leave it to question.
I then replaced the governor spring (which I might add is the most expensive two inch spring I've ever purchased, something like $18.75 w/shipping).
I then adjusted the timing by loosening the bolts towards the front of the mag (i've got a mag with a coil mounted to it - I understand this wasn't an option during the time of production, but it works...if I could find a distributor that didn't cost as much as a good portion of this tractor, I'd buy it). I found that it ran better when rotating towards the engine, but the resistor was up against the block, so I figure I better move the gear under the rotor. If i'm not mistaken (could very well be!) rotating towards the engine would retard the timing. So would move that gear clockwise or counterclockwise (when viewing the adjustment from the direction of the cap)???
I also swapped out the condenser for the new one I had purchased, and it seemed to run much more smoothly with the new condenser.
With it running pretty good I decided to take a lap with the disc, and it no longer bogged down/lacked power like it did. I guess the spring worked?
One thing I did notice is that although it doesn't lack power like it did, it doesn't seem to have the top end RPM's it once had, even without a load. Is this adjustable only by adjusting the length of the throttle rod to the governor? or is there something I'm missing?
Thanks for all your help so far!!!
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