1954 Super C Starter Replacement

I have a 1954 Farmall Super C with the original 6 volt electrical system and my 2 year old Chinese starter has burned out. I still have the original starter to the tractor and had thought about having that rebuilt, but the local shop doesn't do them anymore. So, is there a better solution to replacing the starter? As I get more elderly I have having trouble crank starting it.

Just find a good used one or a good rebuilt one. I know many places sell U.S. made ones that have been rebuilt and many auto parts stores like O'Reilly's can get them. Shoot this site may even have them

The last one I bought came from one of the parts suppliers on this site. And I didn't know it was going to be Chinese made until I got it. Think I paid about $107 for it. And of course it was advertised as having a one year warrenty. And that was purchased just a little over a year ago. So, is there a dealer that someone has purchased a starter from that turned out to be not Chinese made in the last year and has had good luck with it on their tractor?

Check nearby towns; We have a good electric rebuilder here in Fergus Falls, MN.

I called a Case-IH dealer in Adrian, MI, about 45 mins from here and asked to talk to the service dept. I explained I had an older tractor and wanted to see if they had a shop they used for starter motor rebuilds. They referred me to a guy across town who they recommended.

be sure to use 1ga cables run the pos ground cable to the starter mounting bolt and of course the neg cable to the starter sw

There are two major problems with the original starters on a C or Super etc. The one is they only use two field coils thus having less torque. The other is they do not use a center bearing in the starter. The M starters and others use center bearing delco part # 1838667 and I have installed several of them into a C starter. Some starter cones have the machined recess in them, but most do not. That is the biggest problem but any machine shop can cut that recess. Any good electrical repair shop familiar with that starter should also recognize the need for the center bearing.

When everything is perfect, the original starters work fine. When things get less than perfect, starter is sluggish and the magnetic field built up in there draws that armature right on over to the side. It takes careful examination to determine this unless it is really bad but it happens. With greater gap on one side that the other it apparently upsets the torque applied to the armature even if it isn't physically rubbing severely.

The original ground connection right at the battery box to steering support is also a real bad idea but there again, if everything is perfect, it worked.

No reason a little engine like that should be difficult to start.

Haven't had my Super C starter apart in 20 years but am sure it has a center brg., a plate with a bushing in it. It's always been a fast starter, no need for 12 volts.

The best thing you can do is listen to Pete 23, and get that old rebuilt, there a auto electric shop somewhere around you !

no center bearing those atarters are the same as the As and Bs with the exception of placement of the button where the sw goes. No place to put acenter bearing because then the bendix is relaxed it is back next to the windings. They fail because of bad grounding and too light cables. They are 60 pluss yrs old and poor maintence and a bad starting engine not in the original design.

Made the same as an M as far as installing a center bearing. Put in several. I have seen some other mickey mouse add on center bearings in various starters over the years but the delco original is pretty simple and straight forward. No problem.

The thing that I replace most often is the brushes. If you have a NAPA near you they can get the brushes. They are relatively cheap and straight forward to replace. The other thing that I have replaced is the springs that push the brushes against the armature. If they are soft (overheated), you may need a decent rebuilder to order them for you.

Mark the back end plate, the case, and the nose so it goes back together correctly. There should be an alignment dowel in the case but it has been a long time since it was new. Take the two long screws out and pull the back plate off. I don't think it will come completely off but you can see what you are up against. There may be a shim or insulating washer back there that you don't want to lose.

The brushes are attached with screws so you don't need the mother of all soldering irons to change them. It is a little fussy to get the brushes held back in the holders while you fit them over the end of the armature but not too bad. A drop of oil on the bushings won't hurt anything either.

Did you take the new starter apart and see what failed ?


Greg

there is a little shop in Arp, Tx that does a real good job; he does all my work.. its Arp Alternator

bass
53superC

All the new replacements are going to be Chinese, so if you don't trust them your only hope is to find a good used one or expand your search to find a place to get the original fixed. If the local-local guy doesn't do it anymore, maybe the next-nearest one does, even if you have to drive an hour or two.

Send it to John Brillman who owns the "Brillman Company" in Virginia. He does excellent work. Should not be a problem.

picture of a center bearing I installed some years ago in a starter that originally did not have one.