McCormick #30/#31 Parts

anotherbri · Jul 10, 2017

Hi everyone,
I have a McCormick loader on my H and the cylinders really need to be rebuilt. The one cylinder is blowing the oil right out the cylinder end seal now. I would like to replace these seals as well as any internal o-rings or seals.
I was wondering if anyone had a parts diagram break down of the cylinder components they could share and any part numbers or dimensions of seals needed?
I'm really not sure if mine is a #30 or #31, but the number that is stamped on the bottom of the cylinders is [color=blue:cdd24fa5b8]450 657 R2[/color:cdd24fa5b8].
Any help or advice on rebuilding these cyclinders would be greatly appreciated.
Happy Harry

jsr8011 · Jul 10, 2017

In my No. 30 manual that part number is for the cylinder head, front. I bought manuals on Ebay. Then got parts from my IH dealer. I gave up trying to work on this myself and had a local hydraulic shop rebuild them. New rods and honed cylinders. expensive.

anotherbri · Jul 10, 2017

Welp, I got one apart today.....almost. That cylinder head has what looks like 2 brass bushings with the rubber seal sandwiched between them. They are held in by a snap ring that I can't seem to get under or behind to pry out. The ring keeps spinning. Also, under the 2nd bushing appears to be a compressed spring. I am thinking that I need to push down on the bushings against that spring in order to remove the snap ring. I might need a press to do this since I don't have any clamping device that will swallow that whole head.

300guy · Jul 11, 2017

I rebuilt mine a few years back. I bought new tubes from a place I think in Minnesota. They were very reasonable for the tubes. Then I bought the cups and end gaskets from IH. Wasn't too bad to fix overall.

300guy · Jul 11, 2017

The cup number is 450 665 R1 and the two o-Rings for tube ends are 450 672 R1. My cylinders had a big nut on the end of the piston rod to remove the cup and retainers.

300guy · Jul 11, 2017

oops I forgot to give you the front packing part number is 450 658 R1. There is a wire snap ring holding this and a spring in the head of the cylinder. A screwdriver wedged up under the wire ring end to raise it out of the groove and then a second one to continue to pop it out of the groove works the best.

anotherbri · Jul 11, 2017

Thanks 300Guy! I'm finding out now that the piston cup under the nut and retainer is discontinued and unavailable. I'll call around to different dealers tomorrow. Maybe I'll luck out and find one that has 2 on the shelf. Lol. My local IH dealer said he couldn't get it. Do you remember how many rubber rings were stacked between the 2 brass bushings on yours? This one has 4. The IH dealer wants $9 a piece. I local cylinder rebuild place has them for less than $3.

anotherbri · Jul 11, 2017

Hey 300Guy, when all is put back together, do I need to fill Oil in to the tubes from the top end pipe plugs to store oil in them to get pushed back to the belly pump on the H? From what I understand, they are actually reservoirs to keep the belly pump full.
And thank you for those part numbers!!!

300guy · Jul 11, 2017

When I did mine, I just left them empty and used the tractor hydraulics to fill everything with oil by raising and lower the loader while added oil all the time. I had to do this several times to let the air settle out of the oil before operating the loader some more. Mine is plumbed differently them most would do it. The guy I bought the tractor and loader from had hoses hooked up to the top end so the oil goes through hoses back and forth to the reservoir rather than the pipe on the cylinder. My Dad had one of these loaders and he never used the extra set of hoses. This works fine and keeps the oil more confined i guess. You might ask your IH dealer to do a dealer search to see if there are any dealers who have it in stock. I was looking for a #7 plow bolt for Little Genius plow. On ebay they had them from $7 to $9 a bolt. I called my John Deere dealer, which also used this bolt to see if he had any. He did a search and found 40 of them in a town 20 miles from me for less than a $1 each. I now own all 40 of them.

anotherbri · Jul 13, 2017

(quoted from post at 23:22:16 07/11/17) My Dad had one of these loaders and he never used the extra set of hoses. This works fine and keeps the oil more confined i guess.

Maybe he had it on an M? From what I understand, the M had a big enough belly pump to supply the needed oil.

Just curious......what made you decide to get new cylinder tubes? What was the deciding factor? The inside of mine don't look too bad. Wish a had a long ball type hone to run through it though, but then again, maybe its better I don't scratch it up inside there.
BTW...I did find one online. Hope it's the right one. The number my local dealer gave me is the same as yours except he said it was an R2, not an R1.

anotherbri · Jul 23, 2017

When installing the new seals (mine had 4 stacked between the brass bushings) in the cylinder head, were the compressed so tight that it made the shaft hard to push back thru??
I got 4 leather type seals, but they are very stiff and compress so much that it is impossible to shove the shaft thru.
I must be doing something wrong, or maybe I need the rubber seals instead of leather.

McCormick #30/#31 Parts

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