petelmcbride
New User
Success. Thanks for all who posTed step by step instructions. Pictures are helpful to me. Maybe they may help someone converting. Did not buy or fabricate anything other than hitachi alternator and some nuts and bolts.
- Thread starter petelmcbride
- Start date
Dave H (MI)
Well-known Member
I'm glad to see you bought the low profile alternator and did not cut the hood.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
yippee! Jim
petelmcbride
New User
Terminals not marked on alt one worked when connected to 12 volts and one didn't. I think
Unused terminal is for light? Stopped thinking when it started charging. This is a hard working tractor when we get a break I would like to get the old generator running and back where it belongs.
Unused terminal is for light? Stopped thinking when it started charging. This is a hard working tractor when we get a break I would like to get the old generator running and back where it belongs.
rvirgil_KS
Well-known Member
Maybe this diagram for Hitachi alternator will help. S stands for "sense". It senses the battery charged voltage and tells the regulator how much to charge. L stands for "Light" and is "idiot light" connection that excites or jump starts the alternator when the engine is started.
Connecting the L terminal to battery charge output will keep regulator excited even when engine is off and alternator may get hot. Charge output goes to S terminal and L goes to ignition switch output through a diode, resistor or small lamp.
With S terminal connected to charge output and no connection to L terminal it will not see a jump start to get it charging.
Connecting the L terminal to battery charge output will keep regulator excited even when engine is off and alternator may get hot. Charge output goes to S terminal and L goes to ignition switch output through a diode, resistor or small lamp.
With S terminal connected to charge output and no connection to L terminal it will not see a jump start to get it charging.
24 hours later, is the battery low or dead ? Looking at rvirgil_KS drawing, you have the excite terminal connected to the BAT jumper which will keep the alternator excited when the tractor is parked, engine off, about a 3-4 amp constant drain that will drain the battery flat in about 24 hours. Move that BAT jumper wire to the other (sense) terminal so the charging voltage drops to a more normal 14-14.5V.
It may self excite with the other terminal not connected to anything if your tractor turns it fast enough. If it will not self excite, you need to wire a gen light between the ignition terminal and the alternators (L) excite terminal.
It may self excite with the other terminal not connected to anything if your tractor turns it fast enough. If it will not self excite, you need to wire a gen light between the ignition terminal and the alternators (L) excite terminal.
petelmcbride
New User
THANK YOU! My battery was dead. I thought I left the key on. I will change the wiring per your advice. Should I eliminate the voltage regulator as well? Thanks again
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Not true exactly. if connected as shown (and not wired internally as a one wire) it will charge because the connection to power is made at the big terminal. It is however on all the time. this will discharge the battery in a week or less when not running.
To fix it it needs that terminal connected as shown in the image. Jim
To fix it it needs that terminal connected as shown in the image. Jim
"Should I eliminate the voltage regulator as well?"
The original generators regulator ? It is not needed, as the alternator regulator is built into the alternator.
You can remove the generators regulator or leave it in place, your choice. If you remove it tape up the wires.
The original generators regulator ? It is not needed, as the alternator regulator is built into the alternator.
You can remove the generators regulator or leave it in place, your choice. If you remove it tape up the wires.
petelmcbride
New User
Thank you for your illustration and your patience, I think I have it now.
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