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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Question

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denglish

01-10-2017 14:08:48




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Hi,
I am preparing to remove my front axle assembly and also repair the steering gearbox. This Super A has an enormous amount of free play that is clearly due to a problem in the gearbox. The front end is fine, but I want to remove it and paint it and also see if I can get the badly-rusted width adjustment freed up and moving.

Here are my questions

1) Can I support the tractor by putting bracing/cribbing under the flat surface on the front of the bell housing and blocking/chocking the back wheels?

2) Are there some useful tips for removing the front axle? Are there some warning issues I should be aware of such as things I may not wish to take apart due to difficulties reassembling or unavailable parts? Order of removal?

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denglish

01-22-2017 10:59:48




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
So I pulled the arm off the shaft at the bottom of the steering box. All looked well. The slots in shaft and arm both looked fine. On the key, there was a slight ridge that might be from wear right at the mating surface for shaft and arm. I couldn't see anything noticeably wrong and the key seemed fine too with micrometer. So I put the arm back on, tightened it down and the slop is gone! I might have inverted the key relative to its previous orientation, so maybe it was worn. The free play is now gone!

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denglish

01-22-2017 08:27:35




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Upon reading Jim's previous response again, I think I know the answer. I'm gong to pull the arm and see how bad it is. Then will probably have some more questions. Thanks for all of your help.



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denglish

01-22-2017 08:18:07




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
From Jim's response, " If the shaft to arm keyway has been loose, the shaft can be seen to move without moving the arm."

Here is what I found upon inxpection. I have not opened the gear box yet. I have simply removed the tie rods and the front axle.
I can move the steering arm (that extends out from the gear box and attaches to the tie rods) back and forth about 15 to 20 degrees (a lot) without moving the vertical it is mounted on in the steering box. Clearly the arm is loos on the rod.

My question is, how best to proceed. Do I need to open the gear box? Can I pull the arm from the vertical shaft by removing the nut, without opening the gear box?

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denglish

01-18-2017 07:35:24




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Doh! Thanks Jim Becker. That was the problem! Not sure how long it would have taken for that to occur to me!



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Jim Becker

01-17-2017 13:15:53




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to seeTake the clamp bolts completely out.



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denglish

01-17-2017 08:50:22




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Hello,

So I didn't get much done on the SA front end, before I was stymied by the pivot pin. Is there a trick for getting it out? Right now the tractor is supported under the bell housing by cribbing and I also have two jack stands under the front axle. There is not much weight on the jack stands. I loosened the screw clamps on the pivot pin (rod?) and I can drive it back and forth about 1/16" but that is all. I have not hit it as hard as I can but I've hit it pretty hard.
Are there any tips or tricks for this? Would it help if there was weight on the axle?

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denglish

01-12-2017 08:39:45




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Thank you. That's good to know.



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denglish

01-11-2017 09:27:53




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Thanks for all the helpful hints. They are going to be very useful. I am first going to follow Jim's trouble shooting suggestions for the gear box. Perhaps I'll be lucky and only need to replace the bearings behind the big nut.
I'll repost when I get stuck or have some findings to report.



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Mark Robke

01-11-2017 16:27:50




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to denglish, 01-11-2017 09:27:53  
If you need a new shaft with the worm gear on it,Greg at Augusta Farm Supply has 3 or 4 new ones in stock,in Augusta,Ky.Mark



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CGID

01-12-2017 19:47:38




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Quest in reply to Mark Robke, 01-11-2017 16:27:50  
I pulled out what hair I had left looking for replacement steering worms. I hope he will ship to Idaho.



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CGID

01-10-2017 18:44:43




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Question in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Wear between the worm and worm gear can account for steering slop too. The worm gear can be replaced but you are stuck with the worm you have. It's welded to the steering wheel shaft and there are no new replacements. If any slop remains in the box after checking keys replacing all the bearings and bushings, it's the gears. Have you checked the tie-rod ends for wear? Are the balls replaceable or are yours the earlier type forged on the ends of the tie-rods?

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Doug Kieta

01-10-2017 15:31:37




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Question in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
I have had my front end off a couple of times to resolve the same problem. I learned that if you can free the axle inner tube on the right side, and the axle pivot pin is not bent and can be driven out, you do not need to remove the U-bolt, which is quite a chore in my opinion. Just a thought that might help you move along a little quicker. Good luck.



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gene bender

01-10-2017 14:57:51




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Question in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
i have done several yes that would be a good place to crib. You will need to remove the u-shaped bracket to remove the axle. The out-put arm has to come off at the same time as the lower half the rest is replacing the bushings and bearing if its bad. Also the seal at the bottom. You will need to remove the steering wheel then the big threaded plug on the sector then you can screw the shaft out. You will want to replace the seal on the steering shaft also.m If the gear is loose on the shaft the wwoodruf key will need some attention. When replacing the large nut use a sealer on the threads. If the bearing on the steering shaft has play it also will need replacing as a worn bearing will give the steering shaft end play causing loose steering also. Good luck getting tie rods loose for adjustment if you want to widen the front track. A torch will come in handy.

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Janicholson

01-10-2017 14:52:09




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 Re: Rebuilding front end and steering box on Super A - Question in reply to denglish, 01-10-2017 14:08:48  
Question #1 that is a perfect place to hold it up.
question #2 The slop in the steering comes from two main places. The gear box has two shafts one hooked to the steering wheel, the other hooks to an arm on the bottom of the box. If the shaft to arm keyway has been loose, the shaft can be seen to move without moving the arm. Removing the arm will show the problem. If it is bad, the fix is to use a dremel tool to recut the Key pocket to the next larger size/thickness, and have the arm broached to match the bigger key. (new key pockets can also be machined into the shaft, but the whole shaft would need to be removed) If ti is a square tapered shaft, (I can't remember which it has) replacing the shaft may be needed.
The other place for slack is in the ball bearing at the end of the steering shaft (behind the big nut) If it is toast, replace it.
Other issues can be spindle vertical bushings, and tierod ends. Easier to see and fix. Jim

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