Newbie here, long time browser but I am now stumped and need a little help.

I recently picked up a 1941 M and the lights and switch are disconnected but still there. I got a new ammeter, starter switch and lights since this is going to be a working tractor for brush hogging and snow removal but can not find a schematic on how to wire up the switch. Tractor is 12 volt.

I need some help hooking up the lights and getting all the wire fixed up. The lights I got are aftermarket ATV style flood lights to put off a little more light but, I am keeping the tear drop lights for later. Here are a few pictures of what i am dealing with.

I have replaced both rear axle seals, pto seal, oil pan gasket and am currently waiting on the transmission and belly pump seals but they are next.

Thanks in advance!

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Grab your ohm meter and test the switch???????

Use the voltage side and find where you lost power to the ignition system.

Wiring is pretty simple on these.

Ok...so I wired it all up per the diagrams. Lights don't work and tractor don't start and amp meter (brand new from this site) does nothing. I ran a jumper from battery direct to pull out on/off switch and it fired right up. The lights I think I will just put in a toggle switch in positive from battery and ruin wire to negotiate on battery and call it good.
Any ideas? I'm frustrated. I'm sure light switch it bad.

Yeah, I figured that was the resistor but Diagram 5 only shows one wire going to it from the ignition switch and one to the distributor. It has more than that now and I just wanted to make sure there wasnt a reason.

My main concern is that the two diagrams show different wires going to the ammeter from different places and I wasnt sure if the normal M was different or if the switch diagram was different for the M vs Super M.

Thanks again!

The tractor was negative ground when i got it...it ran fine but rest of the wires are a mess.

So looking at Bobs Schematic I am trying to merge these two schematics and the ammeter is throwing me off. The electrical box does not show the ammeter wired to it but the 12 volt alternator schematic shows the ammeter wiring going to the switch...am I missing something? Also, is the thing circled in blue the resistor...if so do I just tie into it to break the current...the PO has 3 wires coming into it?? I am not very wire savvy. I am going to strip all the wires off the tractor for the most part and follow this schematic tomorrow night it sounds like if I can get the wife to let me slip away. Thanks again guys, I promise you I am more mechanically inclined then it appears :shock:

Diagram 6 would be for a Super M, Super H, etc with the on/off switch in the box,(Just imagine the switch and a fuse holder between the gauge and light switch on your box.) but the wiring is basically the same. Just do one system at a time. Assuming that you have a 10SI alternator, wire per diagram 5. The circled item is the ballast resistor for the COIL, not the lights. It appears as though someone is using it as a power source for something else. (2 wires on the switch side, 1 on the coil side.)

I will have to look. I don't need low beams. Tractor is at my in laws shop couple hours away. I don't have the tools they do on the farm. I may get there this weekend.

I agree, probably best to just start over. One last question. The switch has what I would call 4 positions, where it is plus three more. Without that other little pig tail resistor wire is the switch any good?

Thanks again

It will still work and function as a light switch, but you will just have high beams, no low beams. Am I correct in saying the red wire goes to the resistor forthe coil? If so, you can use that psoition for the lights.

I agree with Gene. There are too many "customizations" to that wiring system to even try to figure out what the previous owner did, unless you are VERY experienced in wiring tractors.

Just rip it all out and start over, using Bob M's wiring diagram for a 12V alternator.

Looks like you need to remove everything and start over using BOB Ms dia. as you have a mess there

What it looks to me like is the previous owner is using the light switch as the on/off switch, and the pushbutton is going to a solenoid maybe for the starter? Cant tell where the 2black wires on the gauge, and the blue wire on the resistor are going. Also looks like at some point it possibly had a one wire alternator on it and used an oil pressure switch for excitement.

Are you planning on replacing the solenoid with a factory type push button, and on/off switch?

Thanks guys!

Does it matter if mine is 12 volt vs 6 volt? Also, my switch appears to be missing a resistor wire I think.
The previous owner also only had wires to one side of the ammeter and one going from the push button switch to the ammeter.

Try this

• Bob Melvilles wiring diagrams

In reference to a Jensale service book on page number 107. The electrical equipment is drawn up.(1) You have a Field circuit resistance that hooks up from the of field side of the generator.(2) the battery side of the voltage regulator wire feeds to the Load side of the Amp meter.(3)There is wire that runs from that hook up to the fuse side of that light switch. (4)Light switch there are two spots for light hook ups. (4A) is front lights it looks light there on top found top of a dimmer resistance that is the top not the bottom on. (4B) should be the back light post. it is the one between the bottom resistance unit and the top dimmer resistance unit. (5) the last hook up to your amp meter is the Hi side which wires run to the starter unit. My book read for a 6 or 12 volt system (generator with separate voltage regulator) Also shows me a positive ground system. I hope this helps you out good luck Brent