Carburetor Help

Kind of at a loss with this carburetor I have been working on the the last few weeks. I soaked it in that Gunk Carb Clean for 24 hrs, blasted out all passages with carb clean, put a rebuild kit in it. Float moves as it should, needle moves free. As soon as I put it on my H it fires and then dies as though it is not getting enough fuel. Any ideas what to check next? The longest I have gotten it to run on the new carburetor is about 15 seconds. I have had it apart a couple dozen times at least by now, and each time cannot seem to find anything wrong.

trusting that you have fuel flow to the carb. my C farmall, gets quite a bit of goop in the tank, at times

Did you clean all the passages with a fine wire????

I know that I have good fuel flow from the tank, I run an inline filter to try and keep as much junk as I can out. I am trying to put a Super H carburetor on it. It runs on the original carburetor but I think I need just a tad more fuel to make the power that it needs.

Yes, I ran wire through all the passages that I could and then blasted those out with carb cleaner.

that filter could be the problem, did you check fuel flow at carb?

did u take drain plug out of bottom to check for steady stream out bottom of carb......dewy

Over the years I have thrown away so many in line filters that I lost count of them. If you have the correct sediment bowl and screen there is NO need what so ever for a in line filter and unless you have the correct one most do not work well due to the fact most in line filters are made to work with a fuel pump at 7 PSI plus and there is no way a gravity flow system will produce that much PSI. One of my former neighbors had a B that had an in line filter on and he asked me to look at it. I did I threw that filter in the bed of my truck hooked up the fuel line as it should have been and the tractor ran just like it should have and I have done that many many many times

been 30 years since I worked on the h carb...cant remember if they had that ventury tube that went in between the 2 halfs of the carb I remember it could be put in upside down and give ya trouble

Here's my H carb adjustment procedure, might help.

. CARB ADJUSTMENT .

Make sure the float isn?t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so the float doesn?t rub or touch. Pretty important.
Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
[Note a new float might already be set correctly.]

INITIAL settings are as follows to get the engine started;
Main fuel adjusting screw; big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. [This screw adjusts fuel.]
Idle-air-mixture screw; smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. [This screw adjusts air.]
Idle speed screw; faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages in the slot. [This screw adjusts RPM?s.]

FINAL settings are as follows;
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the small idle-air-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until engine idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the big main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)

Engine should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.

(quoted from post at 17:53:09 06/02/16) I know that I have good fuel flow from the tank, I run an inline filter to try and keep as much junk as I can out. I am trying to put a Super H carburetor on it. It runs on the original carburetor but I think I need just a tad more fuel to make the power that it needs.

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Unless you have made some serious modifications to the engine, the original H carburetor will deliver MORE than enough fuel. The Super H carburetor will only reduce the efficiency and make black smoke. Also, if you insist on using the Super H carb, you really need to install a Super H--350 manifold.

i hope ur chasing the right problem , as it could be electrical also. pretty easy to see that the passages are ok by squirting gas in them and blowing them out with air. this shows you as the gas is blown out other end. and those filters are not designed for gravity feed. they go on the pressure side of the fuel pump. the sediment bowl and if it has a screen is sufficient. there is also a screen at the carb inlet too. no other filter is required. even the old cars just used to run a sediment bowl. those inline filters were installed by mechanic's after the fact.
ooh i see u say it runs with original carb. you gotta have that main jet out at least 2 1/2 turns. have you checked the bowl to make sure there is fuel in it?

wrong wrong wrong

Grow up child and maybe you will learn some thing. In line filters unless made fora gravity flow system cause more problem then they will ever fix but some one like you will never learn that

(quoted from post at 20:44:59 06/03/16) Grow up child and maybe you will learn some thing. In line filters unless made fora gravity flow system cause more problem then they will ever fix but some one like you will never learn that

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And just to add more info, if the sediment bowl is intact with the fine mesh screen in it, and the fuel inlet filter in the carburetor is clean and in place, then there absolutely is no need for any kind of in-line filter. You're just throwing money away.

I would change the points & condenser and cap and rotor & then see what happens. I have been running an inline filter for years without any problems whatsoever, but I use a simple cheap one similar to one that would be on a riding mover. I believe the one I use is a Fram G3. Also, if that needle sticks even slightly when the float gravity drops, I would replace the needle and seat.

I would see if you get fuel past the in-line filter. The sediment bowl is made for non-pressurized system, I too have seen several tractors with in-line filters run like crap because of the filter. Once thrown away they run fine. Check it out.